Showing posts with label sleeveless spencer. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sleeveless spencer. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 10, 2012

Sleeveless spencer or body - Jane Austen Festival Bath 2012

Sleeveless spencers or bodies 1799 London fashion print
I have made my white bib front gown and I need something to provide variety so a sleeveless spencer or body is just the thing

The image on the left is from 1799, earlier than my elected date of 1805, but I am from the 'colonies' after all and so my fashions would be slightly be behind the time. Plus, items stay in our wardrobes for years if we like them and I'm sure they did in the Regency period as well.

So, I am tackling the bottom left blue curved front bodice style, as a friend of mine says 'that really puts them out there' LOL!

I have a lovely piece of blue silk to use. The lining is a white organdy to give body to the soft silk. The pattern is an adapted version of the The Elegant Ladies Closet, by Jeanie of Sense and Sensibility. I am using the lining version for the front as its nice and low.

I made up a calico toile and then cut it on Ermentrude to get the right shape for the curves under the bust. This is the same way to create a set of stays with gathered cups.


Then I cut it out in the organdy and fashion silk and here's the result, I still need to trim back the armholes, stitch the bottom and add hooks and eyes to the front.


I like the shape of the front bodice, but the centre point flops forward unless pinned, I'm going to try some cable tie bones to see if that gets them to perk up a bit.

The back is simple, just a normal bodice back.  I need to take it in at the underarm points I think as its a tad 'gappy', but it needs to sit comfortably over three layers.


Blue sleeveless spencer is completed, pictures below ...

Side front view

Front view,
The breast round sections are 'gapey' on Ermentrude, not liking it that gape at all, I haven't tried it on my real body yet and there isn't a dress beneath it, but I may have to gather them in.

The front section won't stay up on its own and needs to be pinned to the bodice, even with light boning. Not a problem and perfectly period.

I fiddled with it to get the fitting right, I put the centre pieces on top of each other and now it works, phew! Here's the final photos. Onto the red spencer now.

Middle section laid on top of each other pulls the spencer in enough to remove gape

Side view

Thursday, July 5, 2012

The essential Regency 'little white dress' - Jane Austen Festival 2012, Bath

I am creating my very first Regency 'little white dress', the essential dress of the early period of the Regency and Directoire periods. I have steered clear of white for a long while as I am sure to spill beetroot on it the first time I wear it, even if beetroot is no where near me! I'm like that lol!

I also felt the gown could be a tad ingenue for a women of my 'certain age', but it seems all ages wore them, so who am I to declare that I am of an unsuitable age?

Not only will the gown be white, it is also a sheer muslin, so la, you will be able to see right through it and will be bib fronted, my very first of these as well. I'm using the Hungarian Chicks brilliant tutorial on the bib front gown with the pattern based, loosely, on the one in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion.

This gown is going to be the base for bright shawls, sleeveless spencers and over gowns. It will enable me to 'ring the changes' with the very small wardrobe I can take on the plane to Bath.

I particularly love the sleeveless spencers on the right, they will add colour and difference at the bodice and won't be bulky to pack, unlike four different gown styles.

It is rather exciting working with such sheer fabric, the muslin is so beautifully soft and has a slight sheen.

I cut the gown out two days ago and started sewing today, the Hungarian Chick says that once you get the hang og it, you can whip this gown together in four hours, I'm not as fast as that, but it has been a surprisingly quick project.

So, first, the bodice, which I am pinning closed, rather than using buttons, pins are definitely a period closure and I detest buttonholes, yes I am a coward where they are concerned. I'm also running a thin cord through the bodice neck line to draw it in close with a slight gather, or loosen it off, should I want a lower bodice for evening wear. This is a technique used in the late 18th century gowns and all through the 19th and into the early 20th.
White on white on white, so very hard to see the bodice front

Back bodice, a better pic
The next step is to put the skirt together. Now, I didn't follow the Hungarian Chick's tutorial to stitch the skirt together because I didn't get it at first and was too impaitent to get start, d'oh, so instead I stitched five gown 'drops' together from the width of my fabric, selvedge to selvedge and after all that seaming, I'll also have a massive hem to stitch, next time, I will use her method which has only one skirt seam and a selvedge for the hem. Having created my large 'tube' as she calls it, I found the centre front, measured 8" in and 18" down and cut the front bib slit in the skirt and hemmed both sides with a rolled hem.

Next I made my bodice bib front, I cut a long strip of muslin on the cross (bias) and then gathered it in to create a lovely ruched effect.

 Then I pinned the skirt on to see how it would work

Looking good, I need a few more pleats to compensate for my plump tummy. Next I'll had the sleeves into the bodice and then attach the skirt and beyond metres of hemming, it will be finished, that is indeed quick.

It is rather exciting working with such sheer fabric, the muslin is so beautifully soft and has a slight sheen.


I cut the gown out two days ago and started sewing today, the Hungarian Chick says that once you get the hang og it, you can whip this gown together in four hours, I'm not as fast as that, but it has been a surprisingly quick project.


So, first, the bodice, which I am pinning closed, rather than using buttons, pins are definitely a period closure and I detest buttonholes, yes I am a coward where they are concerned. I'm also running a thin cord through the bodice neck line to draw it in close with a slight gather, or loosen it off, should I want a lower bodice for evening wear. This is a technique used in the late 18th century gowns and all through the 19th and into the early 20th.
White on white on white, so very hard to see the bodice front

Back bodice, a better pic
The next step is to put the skirt together. Now, I didn't follow the Hungarian Chick's tutorial to stitch the skirt together because I didn't get it at first and was too impaitent to get start, d'oh, so instead I stitched five gown 'drops' together from the width of my fabric, selvedge to selvedge and after all that seaming, I'll also have a massive hem to stitch, next time, I will use her method which has only one skirt seam and a selvedge for the hem. Having created my large 'tube' as she calls it, I found the centre front, measured 8" in and 18" down and cut the front bib slit in the skirt and hemmed both sides with a rolled hem.


Next I made my bodice bib front, I cut a long strip of muslin on the cross (bias) and then gathered it in to create a lovely ruched effect.


 Then I pinned the skirt on to see how it would work


Looking good, I need a few more pleats to compensate for my plump tummy. Next I'll had the sleeves into the bodice and then attach the skirt and beyond metres of hemming, it will be finished, that is indeed quick.

Cutting the facing for the bib front bodice

The bib front with bib bodice attached

The gown is finished, I feel it has turned out very well.

With bib front down, I gathered my under bodice with ribbon, rather than fitting it and adding buttons, I think it gives more versatility size wise

With bib front attached, I didn't pleat the bib front,  I prefer a plain front

Back of gown showing ties, I haven't stitched on my tie holders as yet

Back close-up
The gown is very transparent, when you consider that most women didn't wear drawers and their chemise and petticoat was equally sheer, hmmm, risque times indeed!

The final product, off to a Regency dinner party with friends.








Friday, June 29, 2012

Jane Austen Festival Bath 2012 - costumes for the event

I'm attending the Bath, UK, Jane Austen Festival this year in September and I am really excited, our Australian Festival in April was fabulous and I expect nothing less from Bath.

But of course my wardrobe is in need of a refresh, as, to quote Mrs Allen from Northanger Abbey
 "Bless you, my child, we neither of us have a stitch to wear!"
So, I must stitch frantically between now and September, and yes, I should have commenced earlier, but too many other things have been happening with The Tailor's Apprentice launch of the Miss Page 1940s Pattern Collection.



As we will be travelling half the world away from here, I must create a wardrobe that will cover all basis but will be easy to carry to England, sadly airlines don't take clothing trunks these days, well not in Economy! I found the following list on eBay of all places and its an excellent guide
A good regency wardrobe that will serve you for many events is as follows;

1 set Stays/Shift/Stockings
1 short-sleeved solid or tone-on-tone print gown with a wider neck-line to double as day and evening.
1 pretty print gown for day activities.
2 chemisettes (different collar styles for variety)
1 set of false sleeves
1 robe (cotton daywear) or half-robe
1 net overlay (or voile or sheer muslin)
1 evening robe in finer fabric
A spencer
A formal stovepipe bonnet, and a soft-poke bonnet
1 pair of off-white opera gloves
1 pair of daytime gloves
A fan
A shawl
A pair of short boots
A pair of neutral-toned slippers
A nice reticule.


That wardrobe can offer you a wide variety of looks with minimum stitching on your part ... 
 I already have many of the items on the above list, but I will be making:

1 petticoat as my current one is a tad sad (completed)
1 'little white gown' of the Regency (completed)

2 or 3 sleeveless spencers to 'ring the changes' with the white gowns (1 completed)
1 chemisette (different collar styles for variety)
1 set of false sleeves
1  open-robe (commenced)
1 net overlay (or voile or sheer muslin)
1 evening robe in finer fabric (commenced)
A spencer (completed)


I also have to make more Regency gentleman's clothing for my partner, she does have a number of things already but will require:


2 linen shirts (1 completed)
2 vests ( 1 completed, 1 commenced)
1 pair of silk knee breeches (completed)
1 pair long breeches (completed)
1 long coat (commenced)

... and maybe, time dependent ...
 1 frock coat (completed)