First fault of both jackets are that they are too small, my bad, I used old measurements, opps and J-L had 'grown', so what was meant to be double breasted front became a fashionable unbuttoned coat of the period. The second black velvet evening tailcoat was adjusted and buttons up. But ...
Both are too hot for her, both are fully lined in silk, so they breathe but when she is dancing or on a very hot day, its murder.
So for Bath I am making two new jackets, one black silk damask for evening wear, with black silk damask knee breeches. The other is a very dark green silk suiting which is light weight and has a beautiful hand. Both jackets, as is period, will be unlined with the exception of the tails. So hopefully they will be cooler and unlike the gentleman to the far right, perspiration might be held at bay when dancing.
I am using the Country Wives Regency Tailcoat pattern. I'm not doing the M-notches and I am using a different collar, the standing collar of the period that I have created it for the Regency dustcoat, J-L prefers it, as do I, far more Scarlett Pimpernel.
|Back, this is sitting on my size 10 dummy, so looks too big, the back did need to be taken in to have a better fit by about an inch on the three back seams.|
|Front fits well, it was too long so I took off two inches|
|Sleeves are good, but way too long, I took four inches off them.|
|First cut for right side|
|Second cut for left side|
So the first task is to add the side pockets, I don't do welt pockets often, so I practised on the toile to remember the process.
|Creating pocket in jacket side front, no idea why camera has turned the fabric gold!|
|Pocket bag added|
|A view with flap held up|
|Adding the front chest padding/lining.|
|Facing turning the 'corner' on the jacket front|
|Back section added, pleats pressed in|
|Front view of tails|
|Attaching cuff to sleeve|
|Rolled collar looks like a mustache!|
|Attaching rolled collar to jacket body|
|Pining collar to neckline|
|Back collar attached|
|Front collar attached|
|Side collar view|