Tuesday, January 1, 2013

Historical Sew Fortnightly #0 - Regency drawers or pantelletes

The history of underclothes. p113
The Historical Sew Fortnightly being run by the Dreamstress has begun with a pre-challenge of doing something simple. I am running late as I sprained my ankle on Boxing Day clambering over rocks, opps! So today, two days late, I hobbled (is that sounding pathetic enough?) up to the studio and created a pair of simple drawers.

I usually go without drawers in my Regency reenactments, they were rather risque in the period after all, better to wear nothing at all LOL! Some of my recent gowns however, particular my white sheer muslin, have been too sheer, I have felt rather too 'exposed' so I have been wearing my 1850s pantelletes.

"Drawers came into fashion about 1806. and were first made along the lines of the masculine article, the waistband drawn together by back lacing. The leg was either tubular or drawn into a band below the knee." Willet, C and Cunnington, Phillis. The history of underclothes. 1992, p.112.
Stockinette drawers were very popular for women as they provided warmth and modesty while appearing fashionable. I'm also sure they were comfy and practical.

My drawers are very simple, I made the following style ...
"In some cases the two legs were constructed as separate items, [but] were inadequately held in place ..."
"... My finest dimity pair with real Swiss lace is quite useless to me for I lost one leg and did not deem it proper to pick it up, and so walked off leaving it in the street behind me and the lace had cost me 6 shillings a yard. I saw that mean Mrs Spring wearing it last week in a tucker ..." Willet, C and Cunnington, Phillis. The history of underclothes. 1992, p. 114
 ... so to save myself the embarrassment of the lady above, I attached a drawstring waistband. 

I used a basic pants pattern to get the shape, stitched up two leg tubes, joined the front pants with a short seam. I used french seams throughout. Next I attached the waist band, no falling legs for me, I threaded it with a blue ribbon which will be changed for white.

They feel comfy and work well, though stockinette would be even more comfy. It took about 4 hours all up. Here are the piccies.

Front

Side
Back
Front showing the split
Back showing split


3 comments:

  1. Lorna, I know with mid-19th Century drawers there is a bit of overlap in the back where they attach to the waistband. It provides a bit more coverage. They are also bulkier or "fluffier" if you will, with a bit more gathering in the rear. Do you find these to cover comfortably in the back without that overlap. It does appear that these are period correct for regency period. I don't have much information & no primary sources for women's drawers during this period.

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    Replies
    1. Heh Karin, I've added more bulk than the primary resources mention, they really were just tubes attached to your waist by ribbon threaded through a side of each of the tubes. I've not been able to hunt down any images and there appears to be none in museums until much later. You could use the male pantaloon version that I mention at the very beginning, which wold give you that cover that later period drawers provid.

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  2. Heh Karin, I've added more bulk than the primary resources mention, they really were just tubes attached to your waist by ribbon threaded through a side of each of the tubes. I've not been able to hunt down any images and there appears to be none in museums until much later. You could use the male pantaloon version that I mention at the very beginning, which wold give you that cover that later period drawers provid.

    ReplyDelete

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