tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-39284878489921496882024-03-14T17:48:00.934+11:00The Tailor's ApprenticeThe Tailors Apprentice ... stitching up history one gown at a time ...Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05285873564550568786noreply@blogger.comBlogger101125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3928487848992149688.post-89579910166947180922014-07-30T13:09:00.000+10:002014-07-30T14:04:59.032+10:00A Regency fashion parade at Woodford Academy July 2014<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P-GJfxWNpao/U9hjtBj9YtI/AAAAAAAAFng/OmJ0yUj0l7I/s1600/Presenting_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-P-GJfxWNpao/U9hjtBj9YtI/AAAAAAAAFng/OmJ0yUj0l7I/s1600/Presenting_1.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
On a sunny but very cold Saturday in July, I ran a fashion parade for the Woodford Academy in Woodford, the oldest building in the Blue Mountains, built in 1835. My models, all good friends and brilliant costumers, volunteered along with me to do this as a fund raiser for the Academy. To quote the Academy: <br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">"Thank
you to all who attended Lorna McKenzie’s Regency fashion parade. The
Parade was both highly entertaining and very informative. We were
absolutely thrilled to have a full house. The Woodford Academy
Management Committee is very grateful for the ongoing support from our
creative community which is critical in ensuring that this historic
building remains open for all to experience and enjoy. Thanks again to
Lorna McKenzie and her wonderful models."</span></span></span></blockquote>
Many couldn't attend, so I am giving you a taste of the event through my blog. Enjoy!<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US"><b>War, revolution, lost colonies of
the Americas</b></span></span></span></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">We start in the early era of budding
Sydney Town, the British claimed Australia as its own and in 1788 Sydney is the
capital of the British colony of New South Wales. Britain was at war with
France on and off throughout the Regency period, so uniforms play a big part in
the clothing for men, but first, let’s look at a sporting costume from 1790s. …
</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-G8pz1mQaEH4/U9hK51Ba07I/AAAAAAAAFjo/1akS6DL301w/s1600/woodford+fashion_08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-G8pz1mQaEH4/U9hK51Ba07I/AAAAAAAAFjo/1akS6DL301w/s1600/woodford+fashion_08.jpg" height="320" width="276" /></a></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US"><b>1. Royal Society of British
Bowman </b></span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">Sir Foster founded the Society of
British Bowmen in 1787. It was an ideal way to socialise with his social equals
around Wrexham in England. The society was open to ladies and gentlemen.
Initially the sport was the top priority. The Society quickly gained the
patronage of George, Prince of Wales. He gave a prize each year to the
gentlemen and the ladies. The Society also had its own poet who wrote suitable
rhymes about the host and the guests. </span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 108pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US"><i>At So and So's the
other day</i></span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 108pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US"><i> The Clouds were in a
passion</i></span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 108pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US"><i> His art no archer could
display</i></span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-left: 108pt; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US"><i> Since grape shot came in
fashion </i></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">A poetic hint at the drinking.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">The meetings were the place to be
seen. It was a dating agency for the upper classes of Wrexham. Archery was not
the only sport at these meetings. Ooooooh, la la!</span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7fVd9zzRbwc/U9hLeQcmc-I/AAAAAAAAFjw/DJt7Cim62Qs/s1600/Wendy-Royal+Brittish+Bowman+uniform.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7fVd9zzRbwc/U9hLeQcmc-I/AAAAAAAAFjw/DJt7Cim62Qs/s1600/Wendy-Royal+Brittish+Bowman+uniform.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a><span lang="EN-US">Dinah's outfit is based on an extant
Royal British Bowmen original jacket circa 1794 in the Manchester City
Galleries. The original uniform is glazed wool trimmed with silk & linen,
but as glazed wool is both hard to find and not suited to our climate, Dinah
used polished cotton. Dinah’s guess of a white skirt has been confirmed in? an
aquatint of the 1794 women's competition in Wales after her uniform was sewn.
To be completely accurate it should have a pink van dyke trim piped with green
on the hem. Dinah wears a style of hat called a Lunardi and is based on a
fashion plates she researched via pinterest. She is carrying an original 19<sup>th</sup>
century bow and arrow. </span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">As already mentioned, The Royal
British Bowmen was the first archery society to admit women members in 1787,
and although women members had no fees, there were fines of 1 guinea for not
wearing the uniform at meets. The best scoring lady at the first meeting of the
year would be the Lady Paramount for the season, and in charge of all female
members and had the power to fining any for lady for misbehaviour.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US"> <style><!--
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US"><b>2. Baudin era French naval
uniform </b></span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-scA_7YGtemQ/U9hI1a09_EI/AAAAAAAAFjc/Ynb--nY-OYw/s1600/woodford+fashion_02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-scA_7YGtemQ/U9hI1a09_EI/AAAAAAAAFjc/Ynb--nY-OYw/s1600/woodford+fashion_02.jpg" height="320" width="248" /></a></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">In 1800, Baudin set off from France
with battle corvettes refitted for a peaceful expedition to the Great Southern
Land during a lull in the Napoleonic wars. The ships were renamed Géographe and
Naturaliste. Captain Baudin did not get along with the young free thinking
gentlemen on board. He died on the return trip allowing François Péron to write
the official journal of the voyage ruining Baudin's reputation. Péron also
offered a proposal to the governor of Mauritius for how Sydney may be invaded.
There is no evidence that anybody took this seriously.</span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">Philip’s French naval uniform was
worn from late 1793 to 1804 and is based on a portrait of Captain Jean-Jacques
Magendie (painted in 1802). Philip made this uniform in classes with me.</span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">The embroidery primarily indicated
ranks until they were officially abolished in 1800. Many people continued to
wear embroidery on their uniforms regardless. At the time of the Baudin
expedition to Australia (1800-1803) a uniform like this without embroidery
would indicates the naval rank of Lieutenant.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US"> <style><!--
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</style><b>3. Off with their heads! </b></span></span></span></span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ue_5_2PqVgY/U9hiSEmiNDI/AAAAAAAAFnU/PLClpQD3W4o/s1600/Revolution.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ue_5_2PqVgY/U9hiSEmiNDI/AAAAAAAAFnU/PLClpQD3W4o/s1600/Revolution.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">Death, destruction, fear,
excitement, opportunities, change, the world is in turmoil for all and
extremely </span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">dangerous for aristocrats. This is France in the late 18th
century. Robspierre's reign of
terror is in full swing; the rules and laws change, and then change again. The monarchy is gone, the French
Revolution changes the world.</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">How to survive, how to cope? The
answer? Be prepared for Madam Guillotine and party like its 1794! The Reign of
Terror and the Directoire period in France is a time of fast and furious change
in everything from who is important, who is dangerous to know, how you wear
your clothes, what's important to survive, the fashion you wear, the music you
listen to, the laws that rule your life, the way you live from day to day, all
is in flux!</span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_P3HFOSA1_A/U9hMdpx2ywI/AAAAAAAAFj8/sreQRfMKR0c/s1600/woodford+fashion_09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_P3HFOSA1_A/U9hMdpx2ywI/AAAAAAAAFj8/sreQRfMKR0c/s1600/woodford+fashion_09.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">The silks and satins of the years
before are replaced by simple but expensive cottons from India. Archeological
discoveries of Roman and Greek statues referring to democracy and republicanism
are the rage and influencing fashion, architecture and furniture. To look like
a Roman senator or Grecian goddess is the height of fashion.</span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">Your wig is old hat, but what do you
do with the short hair under it? Turn it into a fashion statement my dear and
wear your hair 'a la Titus', i.e. like a Roman, fashionable for both men and
woman.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US"> <style><!--
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</span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US"><b>4. The Peninsula Wars, the
Grasshoppers and their wives – Alex and Deanne</b></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rPNhreX3XIQ/U9hM-SpO8YI/AAAAAAAAFkU/3ySgvkpxJSk/s1600/woodford+fashion_05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rPNhreX3XIQ/U9hM-SpO8YI/AAAAAAAAFkU/3ySgvkpxJSk/s1600/woodford+fashion_05.jpg" height="320" width="227" /></a><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">Alex is a member of the 95th Rifles
re-enactment group. The 95th is a Napoleonic British Regiment raised in 1800.
Deane is his wife and has been allowed to accompany him on his campaign. This
means he has a better chance of survival, as he has a cook, nurse; help meet
and, hopefully won’t get Syphilis! </span></span></span></span><br />
<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aeBS42S15B0/U9hr1DdjdMI/AAAAAAAAFn8/9i7UJh4EyAI/s1600/Soldier+and+wife.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aeBS42S15B0/U9hr1DdjdMI/AAAAAAAAFn8/9i7UJh4EyAI/s1600/Soldier+and+wife.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">To match Alex's 95th uniform Deanne is
wearing her camp followers out fit which is a dark green woolen skirt, striped yellow and white vest. Tartan
navy and green shawl and white plain bonnet.</span></span></span></span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qBG2MGSI3FM/U9hM6nxafxI/AAAAAAAAFkM/DIFfA3BL6h0/s1600/woodford+fashion_12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qBG2MGSI3FM/U9hM6nxafxI/AAAAAAAAFkM/DIFfA3BL6h0/s1600/woodford+fashion_12.jpg" height="130" width="200" /></a><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">The 95ths green uniform dress,
tactics and training was dramatically different from the normal red-coated
British line Infantry of the day. The green uniform aided in their ability to
conceal themselves, and their rifled firearms increased the accuracy of their
fire. Their training allowed them to work in pairs, use marksmanship principles
and actively shoot at human targets.</span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">The Rifle Corps was fundamental in
the success of the British Army and was the basis of the modern Army. The 95th
Rifles still exist in the British Army, now named the 'The Green Jackets'. The
95th Rifles were never deployed to Australia but many veterans of the Napoleonic
War migrated to Australia.</span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US"><b>5. A fashion plate from France </b></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xB4geMqKzHw/U9hhw-2HLjI/AAAAAAAAFnM/hgCyW-qPskk/s1600/IMG_4974.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xB4geMqKzHw/U9hhw-2HLjI/AAAAAAAAFnM/hgCyW-qPskk/s1600/IMG_4974.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">War and revolution influenced
fashion in many ways; the new high- waisted gowns that represented freedom</span> and
ancient democratic cultures meant that the fashion magazines of the day went
mad with many ideas for high fashion. Like high fashion today, one suspects
that some were never developed past the Vogue photoshoot or a water colour
drawing from Ackerrman’s Respository.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MU3HR7pVhsA/U9hNpr1fR5I/AAAAAAAAFkg/SirpzXxI5I4/s1600/Wendy+-+Paris+fashion+plate.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MU3HR7pVhsA/U9hNpr1fR5I/AAAAAAAAFkg/SirpzXxI5I4/s1600/Wendy+-+Paris+fashion+plate.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">Dinah is prettily presenting a
reproduction from a fashion plate from Year 11 of the Directoire period in
France, 1803 in non-French counting. She wore this at the ball for the Jane
Austen Festival in Canberra this year, and my dears, everyone was bowled over
by her beauty and grace, as are we now!</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US"><b>6. French civilian (naturalist)
outfit </b></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-spqOrCNzYAE/U9hOM8BJVaI/AAAAAAAAFko/xX1szzxS5p4/s1600/woodford+fashion_16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-spqOrCNzYAE/U9hOM8BJVaI/AAAAAAAAFko/xX1szzxS5p4/s1600/woodford+fashion_16.jpg" height="320" width="236" /></a></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"> <span lang="EN-US">The gentleman of the Regency and
Directoire period undertook the study of botany and different animals in their
habitat. Naturalists abounded in Sydney town, clogging the narrow and muddy
streets, exploring out to Parramatta, Botany Bay and Penrith to see the new
world flora and fauna animals of kangaroos, emus, wattle and grevillias. They
were hHoping to find something to claim as new, kill it, stuff it, present a
paper back home on it and name it after themselves.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-arn5g2EcmMw/U9hOP6v5KDI/AAAAAAAAFkw/ttWdFMgBwH8/s1600/woodford+fashion_17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-arn5g2EcmMw/U9hOP6v5KDI/AAAAAAAAFkw/ttWdFMgBwH8/s1600/woodford+fashion_17.jpg" height="200" width="146" /></a><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">Phillip is representing a French
civilian naturalist. His Empire style linen coat is typical for 1805-1820. It
has a Republican cockade on a button, as many of the naturalists (especially
Labillardière) were inspired by the egalitarian ideals promised by the Enlightenment.
A Royalist would wear a white cockade and a Bonapartist might wear the Imperial
red, white and blue as seen on the military uniforms.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US"><b>7. Adventurous women </b></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">There is a lot of upheaval at this
time, women’s husbands die in war and they need to support themselves and </span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qPeknb03nck/U9hOsW84HHI/AAAAAAAAFk4/9wcbTt05m-A/s1600/woodford+fashion_13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qPeknb03nck/U9hOsW84HHI/AAAAAAAAFk4/9wcbTt05m-A/s1600/woodford+fashion_13.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">their
family - , widows pensions as we know them do not exist. Sydney Town, with its
lure of wealth to be made through new land unencumbered by aristocracy, calls a
siren song from afar. Adventurous widows of substance take the chance, book a
place on a ship sailing to Sydney Town to try their luck and see what is
possible.</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">Tracey has arrived to do just that,
she can hire skilled convicts to till her land and make her profits for her
while she hobnobs with the gentry of the town. She is dressed for a dinner with
friends; dinner at this time is taken at 4 pm, sometimes earlier. The colony
does not have endless wax candles to burn, the native bees do not provide the
wax required. She is dressed in a Grecian style gown of fine white muslin, with
a trained over gown in scarlet. White and pale colours are all the rage, the
archeological statue finds are all white, so it is believed that they were
always so. White is the height of fashion and it says ‘I’m rich and don’t have
to worry about my laundry’, the red silk says what silk always says, ‘I’m
rich’. I understand there is a gentleman of the party who is keen to make her
acquaintance …</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US"><b>8. Furthering his interests in
the colony </b></span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">The country fashion of the English
gentleman has changed men’s fashion forever. Where the women have</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SfzTkrOXRz0/U9hPEDyudcI/AAAAAAAAFlI/5ZCGM-0wQJA/s1600/woodford+fashion_14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SfzTkrOXRz0/U9hPEDyudcI/AAAAAAAAFlI/5ZCGM-0wQJA/s1600/woodford+fashion_14.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">moved into
soft and simple gowns, with minimal underpinnings, the men are keen to emulate
the ‘huntin, shootin and fishin’ gentry of England. Gone are lace, bright
colour and silk. An English gentleman wears russets, greens, yellow nankin,
buck skin pants so tight that you can see everything and I mean ‘everything’.
Beau Brummel will arrive soon and take colour from men’s wardrobe forever, well
mostly, his is a style of basic black, white cravats and spotless linens. But
the countryman still revels in his dull coloured sports wear and men of today
can be grateful as this lead the way to jeans!</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">J-L is at the Rocks waiting for the
mail packet to arrive with letters from home; it’s six months between communications
with his wife and children in England. He sports the long coat of the period;
this is an adaptation of an 18<sup>th</sup> century man’s ‘around the house’
coat known as a Banyan, the ‘onesie’ of the 18<sup>th</sup> c man. Well it’s
left the house and is elevated to the dining rooms, saloons and ballrooms all
over Europe and the Colonies. He wears a silk waistcoat, a linen shirt and silk
cravat and is sporting the knee breech and white silk stockings with clocks.
His shoes have buckles as the 18<sup>th</sup> c still has some influence over
his wardrobe. Gloves and a top hat complete his attire. </span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US"><b>9. A glittering ball at
Government House </b></span></span></span></span></div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AqwQG-PGpFI/U9hPrALbE7I/AAAAAAAAFlg/emAcvWDtXZA/s1600/woodford+fashion_22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AqwQG-PGpFI/U9hPrALbE7I/AAAAAAAAFlg/emAcvWDtXZA/s1600/woodford+fashion_22.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">The foundation for Government House
on Sydney Harbour was laid only three months after the First Fleet landed, but
it took a year to build. Once built it became the place for social gatherings
in the colony. It’s not the one we know today, that was built much latter.
Still, for its time and place, it is a building of substance and grace.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hKBjVedlZXw/U9hPoMaIYzI/AAAAAAAAFlY/xdH4i3ZajAs/s1600/woodford+fashion_21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hKBjVedlZXw/U9hPoMaIYzI/AAAAAAAAFlY/xdH4i3ZajAs/s1600/woodford+fashion_21.jpg" height="320" width="192" /></a><span lang="EN-US">Kathy, Miriam and Angela are off to
a glittering ball in honour of the victory over Napoleon in 1813. Napolean
kicks his heels in Elba trying to figure out how to escape and the British
party at their success. Their husbands are ex Rum Corp officers transferred
into the 73rd regiment after the Rum Rebellion in 1809. They have remained to
serve the colony and their personal land interest.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">As wives of officers whose pay often
doesn’t make ends meet, they have refashioned the bold embroidered silk from
their late 18<sup>th</sup> c. gowns, Miriam is the exception, she is in
mourning for the death of her child 12 months ago. </span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tgSZf0ZkySY/U9hPmmS9O_I/AAAAAAAAFlQ/bY22odTG68g/s1600/woodford+fashion_18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tgSZf0ZkySY/U9hPmmS9O_I/AAAAAAAAFlQ/bY22odTG68g/s1600/woodford+fashion_18.jpg" height="200" width="133" /></a><span lang="EN-US">All three wear the bib front gown
style popular a few years earlier; their gowns have a smooth column front and
lovely draping with a train at the back. They wear flats like ballet slippers;
heels are very out of fashion and remain so for over 20 years! Hair is in
ringlets, or still short as in Kathy’s case. The hairstyles reflect those as
seen on the ancient statues of Greece and Rome. They wear gloves and carry fans
to keep cool in the warmth of the Australian evening.</span></span></span></span></div>
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</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US"><b>10. Trowsers by gad! </b></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iDRWENjWo0s/U9hT29dCWgI/AAAAAAAAFls/G3w3DCd0zhc/s1600/woodford+fashion_23.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iDRWENjWo0s/U9hT29dCWgI/AAAAAAAAFls/G3w3DCd0zhc/s1600/woodford+fashion_23.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a><span lang="EN-US">John is sporting fashionable
trowsers (sic) of the mid Regency period. Trousers were first worn by sailors and
working men before 1800, and were adopted by the fashionable set around 1810.
Originally known as “slops”, trousers were loose-fitting and ended at the
ankle. As trousers were adopted, long stockings with decorative clocks were
replaced by half-hose, all but destroying the stocking industry, which had
thrived since breeches had become fashionable.</span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mjdb9v9_JWM/U9hlqDyLItI/AAAAAAAAFns/zO5OV2DbfQI/s1600/Trousers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mjdb9v9_JWM/U9hlqDyLItI/AAAAAAAAFns/zO5OV2DbfQI/s1600/Trousers.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></span></span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">They were fastened with a flap in
front called a fall front, not surprisingly! This flap was held in place by two
or three buttons at the top. No belts were worn. Instead, breeches, pantaloons
and trousers were held up by tight-fitting waists, which were adjusted by
gusset ties in back of the waist. Seats were baggy to allow a man to rise
comfortably from a sitting position. As waists rose to the belly button after
1810, suspenders were used to hold the garment up.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">Pantaloons were recommended for men
whose legs were both slim and muscular. The idea was to show off a good leg. If
men possessed deficiencies in musculature, a slight degree of stuffing was
recommended, although padding, it was assumed, would be used with the greatest
care and circumspection. Interestingly, stockings worn under pantaloons were
kept in place by the tightness of the design and fabric.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US"> <style><!--
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US"><b>11. Red coats! Trooper uniform of
the 73rd Regiment of Foot </b></span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y4nQbZ_Yt4I/U9hUJoiPC6I/AAAAAAAAFl0/TjwihLO89jA/s1600/woodford+fashion_28.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y4nQbZ_Yt4I/U9hUJoiPC6I/AAAAAAAAFl0/TjwihLO89jA/s1600/woodford+fashion_28.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">Philip is representing a “lance
jack” or lance corporal as shown by one rank stripe on the arm in the first
battalion of the 73rd regiment of Foot served in Australia from 1809 to 1815.
These were Governor Macquarie's troops who relieved the NSW (Rum) Corps and
maintained civil order.</span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">They supervised convict work
parties, hunted bush rangers and defended the colony from invasion but their
biggest challenge was boredom and lack of opportunity for military glory.</span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">Australia did not have a dedicated
artillery regiment at this time and one of the duties of the 73rd regiment was to
man a gun battery at Dawes Point, which is now the site of the Sydney Harbour
bridge.</span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US"><b>12. Second sons and fortune
hunters </b></span></span></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">The new colony is a magnet to second
sons who want to leave the confines of England and find a fortune in a</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OkzNm_sLdJs/U9hUnj7NrxI/AAAAAAAAFl8/nLbqmuYqh2o/s1600/woodford+fashion_25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OkzNm_sLdJs/U9hUnj7NrxI/AAAAAAAAFl8/nLbqmuYqh2o/s1600/woodford+fashion_25.jpg" height="320" width="234" /></a></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">new
land. America isn’t as easy to them anymore and we’re the ‘new kid on the
block’ and we all know its ‘first in, best dressed’ so out they flock to the
great southern land of promising futures of squatocracy and living off the
sheep’s back. Fine wool means wealth, everyone wears it, all uniforms are made
from it, you can become as rich as a Nabob off the ‘sheep’s back’.</span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u5K5QSZFMZ8/U9hVbaK7ztI/AAAAAAAAFmM/IJ-x4k-BJCw/s1600/woodford+fashion_24.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u5K5QSZFMZ8/U9hVbaK7ztI/AAAAAAAAFmM/IJ-x4k-BJCw/s1600/woodford+fashion_24.jpg" height="200" width="133" /></a><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">Alex is from Scotland, the second
son, no money, but skilled in sheep rearing, he hopes to secure some land and
learn from Elizabeth MacArthur about sheep breeding to develop a long staple
wool that will change the weaving world! His Kilt and jacket are copies of an
extant suit made in 1800. The fundamental differences from the modern kilt are
the fastening buttons instead of buckles and lack of formal pleating
requirements. The Regency jacket has little resemblance to the formal modern
kilt jacket.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-442o3mjs1J0/U9hUqcvTWuI/AAAAAAAAFmE/Eqayd_9NOa0/s1600/woodfordfashion_25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-442o3mjs1J0/U9hUqcvTWuI/AAAAAAAAFmE/Eqayd_9NOa0/s1600/woodfordfashion_25.jpg" height="200" width="149" /></a><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">Deanne is wearing a brushed cotton ,
regency style dress for warmth in a checked purple. Over the top she's sporting
a tartan Spencer and matching cap. </span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">Their daughter is wearing a white cotton
dress with blue flower with bib opening front.Over this she is wearing a full
length apricot woolen Spencer and matching cap.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US"><b>13. The gothic revival </b></span></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ymDtr_jmSUE/U9hV_SXaVOI/AAAAAAAAFmU/Oyr37QUT3v4/s1600/woodford+fashion_29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ymDtr_jmSUE/U9hV_SXaVOI/AAAAAAAAFmU/Oyr37QUT3v4/s1600/woodford+fashion_29.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a><span lang="EN-US">As the Regency moves on, dress
starts to lose the simple Grecian lines and move into a more structured format
and by the teens the fashion style is influenced by the gothic styles of the
Renaissance. Gowns start to take on aspects of style, such as split sleeves,
many more trims and furbelows, Renaissance style head dresses, etc. Miss Austen
makes fun of the Gothic revival in Northanger Abbey, while others, such as Mrs
Radcliffe, write tales of gothic horror that curl the hair of her Regency
readers. </span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">Alex is wearing a stunning
recreation of Mrs. Hurst’s gothic style full dress (ball gown), as seen in the
BBC’s Pride and Prejudice adaptation in the mid-90s.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><br /></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">Pride and Prejudice and Sense and
Sensibility were written in 1811 but published in 1813. According to a
biography writer, Jane revised her books, and the fashion between their covers,
accordingly before being published.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">The original gown was made in green
silk with green velvet contrast. Alex’s is brown with burgundy velvet contrast.
Other than that, the gown is decorated as closely as possible to the original
BBC costume.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">Her jewellery and headpiece are also
replicas of the film costume and were created by a good friend.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US"><b>14. Australia, your standing in
it! </b></span></span></span></span></div>
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UcnffQ-Mf4g/U9hWW2HX5qI/AAAAAAAAFmc/NqnarKKWJHA/s1600/woodford+fashion_30.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UcnffQ-Mf4g/U9hWW2HX5qI/AAAAAAAAFmc/NqnarKKWJHA/s1600/woodford+fashion_30.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"></span></span><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">‘Prinny’ The Prince Regent, ascends
the throne of England as George IV on the 29 January 1820, the regency era is
over. </span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">The French Revolution is long over
and with Napoleon safely removed from the scene, in distant St Helena, the
Bourbon king Louis XVIII - who is
restored to the throne now for the second time - attempts to establish the
constitutional monarchy which has been the condition of his dynasty's return.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">In 1824, the British Admiralty
officially adopts the name ‘Australia’; we have ‘arrived’ on the map of the
European world. </span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">It’s a decade where the native born
children of first settlers and convicts alike assert themselves and their
rights to what William Wentworth and others toast as ‘the land, boys, on which
we live!’. Sydney has 1,084 buildings – mostly single-storey dwellings – and
12,079 people and 120,000 sheep! We really are ‘living off the sheep’s back’.</span></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">Clare and Phoebe are daughters of
freed convict parents who received land grants</span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HfizmoCk8c4/U9hWbRQEeEI/AAAAAAAAFmo/LDPY_xKQGD4/s1600/woodford+fashion_32.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HfizmoCk8c4/U9hWbRQEeEI/AAAAAAAAFmo/LDPY_xKQGD4/s1600/woodford+fashion_32.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US"> and are prospering. News of such
prosperity upsets the English government; transportation should be seen as a
terrifying prospect, a deterrent to crime. During the 1820s, the dreadful penal
settlements of Moreton Bay, Macquarie Harbour, Port Macquarie and Norfolk
Island were established and gained reputations for harsh punishments and severe
cruelty.</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">Both young women wear gowns designed
by me from extant originals from the early </span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HPAbR6I1C8E/U9hWayYia9I/AAAAAAAAFmk/s1WIdGF4djo/s1600/woodford+fashion_31.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HPAbR6I1C8E/U9hWayYia9I/AAAAAAAAFmk/s1WIdGF4djo/s1600/woodford+fashion_31.jpg" height="200" width="133" /></a></span></span></span></div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span lang="EN-US">1820s. They are dressed in the late
Gothic revival style that still holds sway on fashion, their waistlines have
dropped and will continue to the natural waist over the next few years. The
classic and clean lines of revolution and change have departed and we move to
over decorated gowns, rope petticoats appear to give an A-line shape, rather
than a graceful drape. Both these gowns are dress patterns in my ‘Stitch Up
History’ collection and will be published in the near future.</span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">If you've read down this far, thank you, and I hope you've enjoyed a trip the early Sydney Town fashions.</span></span></span> </span></span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJ6CkJHEWSs/UWUZt8hGO1I/AAAAAAAAEl4/_nraLiXO-QA/s1600/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-1.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJ6CkJHEWSs/UWUZt8hGO1I/AAAAAAAAEl4/_nraLiXO-QA/s320/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-1.png" height="320" width="152" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: purple;"><i><b><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="background-color: white;"><b>I'm The Tailor's Apprentice, maker of <a href="http://thetailorsapprentice.createsend1.com/t/j-l-thdlxl-l-g/" style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">The Miss Page 1940s reproduction patterns</a>,
gowns developed from pattern pieces found amongst the remnants of Miss
Violet Florence Page’s life and work. Affordable, elegant, and unique
garments from the 1940s war years.</b></span> </span></b></b></i></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: purple;"><i><b><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">All my patterns are available
on <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/StitchingUpHistory" target="_blank">Etsy</a> and my <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php" target="_blank">website</a>
where you'll find out more about me as well. This year I am publishing
an 1820s gown wardrobe pattern and have already published the <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/patterns/pattern/aans-ward-dress" target="_blank">Australian Army Nurses Services WWI uniform pattern</a>.</span></b></b></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: magenta;"><b><br /></b></span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><b><span style="color: purple;"><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">If
you'd liked to be included on my mailing list for events, pattern
release dates and interesting snippets about vintage and historic
sewing, please subscribe to my Newsletter on The Tailor's Apprentice <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/about_me/subscribe" target="_blank">website</a>.</span></b></span></b></i></span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05285873564550568786noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3928487848992149688.post-41478569486654121472014-03-14T15:02:00.002+11:002014-03-14T15:05:23.915+11:00Making an 1814 evening gown from Ackerman's Repository<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZhM80E2ioZQ/UyJtV2k9YUI/AAAAAAAAFZE/VJIwxfgF1WU/s1600/1814+evening+gown+Ackermans.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZhM80E2ioZQ/UyJtV2k9YUI/AAAAAAAAFZE/VJIwxfgF1WU/s1600/1814+evening+gown+Ackermans.jpg" /></a></div>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><i>A white crape, or fine muslin petticoat, worn over white satin, embroidered in silver lama round the bottom. A bodice of olive, or spring green - green satin. ornamented with a silver stomacher. Short, full sleeve, rounded bosom, trimmed with a full silver border to correspond. A fan frill of fluted lace, continued around the back, and terminated at the corner of the bosom. A silver fringe round the bottom of the waist.</i></span> Ackerman's Repository March, 1814.</blockquote>
I choose this gown for my <a href="http://janeaustenfestival.com/" target="_blank">Jane Austen Festival Australia</a> 1814 challenge. It was simple, elegant and relatively easy to recreate. Or so I thought. Little did I know that it would become the 1814 bodice from hell!<br />
<br />
I went shopping for some green satin at the local fabric stores, everything but green of any kind. I bought all the trims, the silver plastic 'lama' ribbon for embroidering, silver fringing and two mother of pearl buttons for the sleeves.<br />
<br />
I went home and searched through my stash for fabric to go with the silver. I decided on a royal blue saree silk Georgette that I could interline with a pale blue taffeta. Blue and silver always look well together.<br />
<br />
To create the 'rounded bosom' bodice, I cobbled various Regency pattern drafts together. For fitting, I'm using my paper paste dummy that was created over my stays. Its actually slightly bigger than I am due to the T-shirt and paper, which means I can make the gown nicely tight, but on my more malleable body it will be comfortable. You can make one for yourself, it saves you having to put stays on and off for fittings. Plus fitting oneself is NEVER easy!<br />
<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cBkl91GJ12I/UyJwEDxiTqI/AAAAAAAAFZY/1l0LJ2jN8xY/s1600/IMG_4635.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cBkl91GJ12I/UyJwEDxiTqI/AAAAAAAAFZY/1l0LJ2jN8xY/s1600/IMG_4635.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
The gown apperared to have a sweet heart neckline so I cut one in, but then I realised that it was the stay busk separating the bosom and so didn't continue with it.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RJaXUxku09I/UyJv_C13EHI/AAAAAAAAFZQ/YYfjrTIUTJg/s1600/IMG_4636.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RJaXUxku09I/UyJv_C13EHI/AAAAAAAAFZQ/YYfjrTIUTJg/s1600/IMG_4636.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
As there was no back shown, I made my standard Regency triangle back. So far so good.<br />
<br />
Now the trouble starts, a stomacher to me is an 18th and earlier front in a V shape, often covewred by lacing. Its highly embroidered and decorated. The one below from the Museum of London is a beautiful example.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cqBtxZV1QMI/UyJyAMetVdI/AAAAAAAAFZk/ko948Jm0DLc/s1600/18th+c.+silver+stomacher.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cqBtxZV1QMI/UyJyAMetVdI/AAAAAAAAFZk/ko948Jm0DLc/s1600/18th+c.+silver+stomacher.jpg" /></a></div>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><i>Stomacher for a spitalfields woven silk Court dress. The stomacher is
roughly triangular, with a straight bottom edge; trimmed with eight rows
of metal thread braid with bows and tassels alternating with seven rows
of ivory, yellow, purple, green and pink silk rosettes; edges finished
with cream silk tape. The Court dress was traditionally thought to have
been worn by Mrs. Ann Fanshawe when her father, Crisp Gascoyne, was Lord
Mayor of London in 1752-53. Mrs. Fanshawe acted as her father's Lady
Mayoress as her mother had died in 1740.</i> </span><a href="http://www.museumoflondonprints.com/image/138342/unknown-stomacher-for-a-spitalfields-woven-silk-court-dress-18th-century" target="_blank">Image from Museum of London </a></blockquote>
This what I had in my mind, so why did I go off in some weird 'Heidi or Snow White meets Regency' fantasy land? Reader, I know not, but off into this land I went and here's the results.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Z6yqdw56Kpg/UyJzNjoRrFI/AAAAAAAAFZw/bv4Db-RarcQ/s1600/IMG_4637.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Z6yqdw56Kpg/UyJzNjoRrFI/AAAAAAAAFZw/bv4Db-RarcQ/s1600/IMG_4637.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
Now, admittedly, I was using the blue ribbon as it showed up better on the calico, so at first I thought, 'Its just the colour'. WRONG! I pinned on a coloured sheer skirt that I thought I might use, but it was too green for the blue. I then added the lace, now I was really in Disneyland...<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MeOLHEWc904/UyJ2d5P-scI/AAAAAAAAFaM/l65klYT9klg/s1600/IMG_4640.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MeOLHEWc904/UyJ2d5P-scI/AAAAAAAAFaM/l65klYT9klg/s1600/IMG_4640.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
... but still I persisted in my blindness to the fashion fabric, grrrr! Does this look like Snow White I ask you dear Reader?!?!?! <br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cq_KPrSTGTo/UyJ2gTBM8RI/AAAAAAAAFaU/tKd2D8dKL9A/s1600/IMG_4667.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cq_KPrSTGTo/UyJ2gTBM8RI/AAAAAAAAFaU/tKd2D8dKL9A/s1600/IMG_4667.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
I have no picture of the sleeves on the above bodice, but trust me, I would have been singing to the seven darves!<br />
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I frog stitched off the front pale blue stomacher and moved to the next version. I thought that as the stomacher was unseen in the image I could be as creative, or not, as I liked. So I placed a single line of silver 'lama' down the front. This looked better and I started to relax, but a very lame (pun intended) attempt at a stomacher! I couldn't leave it at that.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vyVNgkK3nZI/UyJ2jBivGCI/AAAAAAAAFac/kLB9_Xhvx5k/s1600/IMG_4670.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vyVNgkK3nZI/UyJ2jBivGCI/AAAAAAAAFac/kLB9_Xhvx5k/s1600/IMG_4670.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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Having solved the stomacher issue, or so I thought, I added the skirt. I needed a sheer fabric and the only one I could get was a sheer spotted polyester, plastic as hell. Honestly our local fabric shops get worse and worse, no wonder I mostly buy online. Sadly I left this project too late in the day to fetch good silk from OS.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UkTesL-uAvs/UyJ2HCen7iI/AAAAAAAAFaI/mhnbe-fO7fI/s1600/IMG_4685.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UkTesL-uAvs/UyJ2HCen7iI/AAAAAAAAFaI/mhnbe-fO7fI/s1600/IMG_4685.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
Skirt on, I continued to fiddle with the stomacher again and the spotted sheer isn't anywhere near as drapey as I would like. I don't like the lace either, still smacks of Snow White.<br />
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Final fiddle with the stomacher. I think this version is best and frankly I'm over this dress. <br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-usOPU3oGSmQ/UyJ6zF5sQ2I/AAAAAAAAFao/h3nSezmg6Pg/s1600/IMG_4689.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-usOPU3oGSmQ/UyJ6zF5sQ2I/AAAAAAAAFao/h3nSezmg6Pg/s1600/IMG_4689.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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It should have a satin underlining but I will wear it over my muslin
petticoat as I'm not wasting more time on it. I hope I like it more when
its on me, but as I'm still making my new short stays, that has to wait
for the weekend.<br />
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My next project is an 1814 day gown from Ackerman's, hopefully I will enjoy the process more!<br />
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gowns developed from pattern pieces found amongst the remnants of Miss
Violet Florence Page’s life and work. Affordable, elegant, and unique
garments from the 1940s war years.</b></span> </span></b></b></i></span></span></div>
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where you'll find out more about me as well. This year I am publishing
an 1820s gown wardrobe pattern and have already published the <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/patterns/pattern/aans-ward-dress" target="_blank">Australian Army Nurses Services WWI uniform pattern</a>.</span></b></b></i></span></span></div>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05285873564550568786noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3928487848992149688.post-14053271341637624012014-02-19T14:54:00.000+11:002014-02-19T15:10:39.595+11:00A 1920s and 30s find of clothes!<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sX2mJMXDWrU/UwQgSh7-jFI/AAAAAAAAFVU/GyugoPMJXIw/s1600/IMG_4543.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sX2mJMXDWrU/UwQgSh7-jFI/AAAAAAAAFVU/GyugoPMJXIw/s1600/IMG_4543.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A 1930s fur jacket</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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My student of four years has been successful in getting into the costuming course at Ultimo TAFE and I am extremely proud of her. I have always jokingly referred to her as 'my apprentice' and now she no longer visits me for classes, I miss her creativity and enthusiasm for knowledge. however, we do socialise which is lovely. Today she brought a wonderful set of 20s and 30s vintage clothes to show me, these had been passed to her by a friend whose family didn't wish to keep them. It was such a pleasure to view them and I also had the opportunity to photograph them and so you get to see them as well.<br />
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First up is the beautiful short fur jacket from the 30s on the left. It has a large shawl collar and the cut is superb. I'm not a fur expert and am unsure what this is, the fur is very soft, and it doesn't feel like rabbit, I have a rabbit skin coat from the 40s and it feels and looks quite different.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YbT8xk42ORY/UwQgDyHxUEI/AAAAAAAAFVQ/XOdSKsk1BGo/s1600/IMG_4544.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YbT8xk42ORY/UwQgDyHxUEI/AAAAAAAAFVQ/XOdSKsk1BGo/s1600/IMG_4544.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back view, 1930s fur jacket</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HQ5_XhY54Kg/UwQgACTU8II/AAAAAAAAFVI/TTdFDKn9KOA/s1600/IMG_4545.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HQ5_XhY54Kg/UwQgACTU8II/AAAAAAAAFVI/TTdFDKn9KOA/s1600/IMG_4545.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A beautifully made inside pocket, 1930s fur jacket</td></tr>
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The next delightful piece is a beautifully beaded flapper 20s gown, the fabric is silk crape and is extensively beaded and has fine pintucks as embellishment as well. This would have been worn over a black slip which is no longer with the gown.<br />
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To go with the above dress is a black silk coat, beautifully ruched and smocked, with a delicious floral silk lining. Sadly black never photographs well.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hiIxNHxxJTg/UwQjvUlLPNI/AAAAAAAAFWc/siVCMqitXUc/s1600/IMG_4536.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hiIxNHxxJTg/UwQjvUlLPNI/AAAAAAAAFWc/siVCMqitXUc/s1600/IMG_4536.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The ruched and smocked shawl collar</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Iqn4Djthdgs/UwQjo7NcOkI/AAAAAAAAFWM/4qSlRybVdvI/s1600/IMG_4537.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Iqn4Djthdgs/UwQjo7NcOkI/AAAAAAAAFWM/4qSlRybVdvI/s1600/IMG_4537.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Closer look of the collar</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XN47jBjNf4c/UwQjukyN9ZI/AAAAAAAAFWU/QY0jDjZHVYM/s1600/IMG_4538.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XN47jBjNf4c/UwQjukyN9ZI/AAAAAAAAFWU/QY0jDjZHVYM/s1600/IMG_4538.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front view</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4n2_wwj0hMM/UwQj2eT_znI/AAAAAAAAFWk/ppC_X_8XUnE/s1600/IMG_4540.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4n2_wwj0hMM/UwQj2eT_znI/AAAAAAAAFWk/ppC_X_8XUnE/s1600/IMG_4540.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Delicious silk lining</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-alj6yFePGic/UwQj7QSZHcI/AAAAAAAAFWs/84fKXXMaBww/s1600/IMG_4541.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-alj6yFePGic/UwQj7QSZHcI/AAAAAAAAFWs/84fKXXMaBww/s1600/IMG_4541.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Full view of collar</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-im2ZldLOnSU/UwQj-2tg-ZI/AAAAAAAAFW0/48_q1GwA3Vo/s1600/IMG_4542.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-im2ZldLOnSU/UwQj-2tg-ZI/AAAAAAAAFW0/48_q1GwA3Vo/s1600/IMG_4542.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sleeve cuff detail</td></tr>
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The final beautiful piece is the silk wedding gown.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--30gsOjDeWc/UwQqBqZ9k-I/AAAAAAAAFYE/hqutYvKVY28/s1600/IMG_4517.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--30gsOjDeWc/UwQqBqZ9k-I/AAAAAAAAFYE/hqutYvKVY28/s1600/IMG_4517.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front of gown, sorry its upside down!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-52YLShh8QkM/UwQnMYWe4UI/AAAAAAAAFXA/v1UGjo2LeI8/s1600/IMG_4519.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-52YLShh8QkM/UwQnMYWe4UI/AAAAAAAAFXA/v1UGjo2LeI8/s1600/IMG_4519.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Details of the ruffled and lace skirt, with the fabulous art deco buckle</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qd8RL7uB7qI/UwQnUFjMVYI/AAAAAAAAFXQ/EmP4E_bhUDk/s1600/IMG_4520.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qd8RL7uB7qI/UwQnUFjMVYI/AAAAAAAAFXQ/EmP4E_bhUDk/s1600/IMG_4520.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bodice with inset lace and buckle</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZX-rbukxUxk/UwQncqZ74tI/AAAAAAAAFXY/PJVyVwVr3PI/s1600/IMG_4521.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZX-rbukxUxk/UwQncqZ74tI/AAAAAAAAFXY/PJVyVwVr3PI/s1600/IMG_4521.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fine pintucks as a design feature at the top of the sleeve</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Q_VkOWXqA70/UwQnl3CcBEI/AAAAAAAAFXo/I05-9c7YzzA/s1600/IMG_4522.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Q_VkOWXqA70/UwQnl3CcBEI/AAAAAAAAFXo/I05-9c7YzzA/s1600/IMG_4522.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cuff of sleeve</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I-U9K3fJWSs/UwQniggscNI/AAAAAAAAFXg/f7c5LgG_JLg/s1600/IMG_4523.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I-U9K3fJWSs/UwQniggscNI/AAAAAAAAFXg/f7c5LgG_JLg/s1600/IMG_4523.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back of wedding gown</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oWgXwRgIZnY/UwQnrs8xITI/AAAAAAAAFXw/r6kW18ltIyw/s1600/IMG_4524.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oWgXwRgIZnY/UwQnrs8xITI/AAAAAAAAFXw/r6kW18ltIyw/s1600/IMG_4524.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inside view of the skirt attached to bodice</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yYMzsLkffSg/UwQnveBZWJI/AAAAAAAAFX4/rNnnPA9XqjY/s1600/IMG_4525.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yYMzsLkffSg/UwQnveBZWJI/AAAAAAAAFX4/rNnnPA9XqjY/s1600/IMG_4525.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Buckle and tiny garter</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Lg4u7KkcKqw/UwQnSPXdHmI/AAAAAAAAFXI/DGQUZtkvU9I/s1600/IMG_4518.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Lg4u7KkcKqw/UwQnSPXdHmI/AAAAAAAAFXI/DGQUZtkvU9I/s1600/IMG_4518.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another close-up of the buckle</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
There's more to show, 1930s pajamas and underwear, but I'll leave that for another post.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJ6CkJHEWSs/UWUZt8hGO1I/AAAAAAAAEl4/_nraLiXO-QA/s1600/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-1.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJ6CkJHEWSs/UWUZt8hGO1I/AAAAAAAAEl4/_nraLiXO-QA/s320/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-1.png" height="320" width="152" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: purple;"><i><b><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="background-color: white;"><b>I'm The Tailor's Apprentice, maker of <a href="http://thetailorsapprentice.createsend1.com/t/j-l-thdlxl-l-g/" style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">The Miss Page 1940s reproduction patterns</a>,
gowns developed from pattern pieces found amongst the remnants of Miss
Violet Florence Page’s life and work. Affordable, elegant, and unique
garments from the 1940s war years.</b></span> </span></b></b></i></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: purple;"><i><b><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">All my patterns are available
on <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/StitchingUpHistory" target="_blank">Etsy</a> and my <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php" target="_blank">website</a>
where you'll find out more about me as well. This year I am publishing
an 1820s gown wardrobe pattern and have already published the <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/patterns/pattern/aans-ward-dress" target="_blank">Australian Army Nurses Services WWI uniform pattern</a>.</span></b></b></i></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: magenta;"><b><br /></b></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><b><span style="color: purple;"><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">If
you'd liked to be included on my mailing list for events, pattern
release dates and interesting snippets about vintage and historic
sewing, please subscribe to my Newsletter on The Tailor's Apprentice <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/about_me/subscribe" target="_blank">website</a>.</span></b></span></b></i></span></div>
</div>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05285873564550568786noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3928487848992149688.post-23592415542886348972014-02-17T13:29:00.000+11:002014-02-19T13:30:28.981+11:00Storm clouds over Europe AGWA weekend in Goulburn<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gf_5IAaW4jc/UwFlLdZMEgI/AAAAAAAAFRw/zajlUyOfhJs/s1600/IMG_4426.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gf_5IAaW4jc/UwFlLdZMEgI/AAAAAAAAFRw/zajlUyOfhJs/s1600/IMG_4426.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/patterns/pattern/aans-ward-dress" target="_blank">My AANS Uniform</a> </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
To start the centenary of WWI and Australia's participation in the 'war to end all wars' a group of us from the <a href="http://www.agwa.org.au/" target="_blank">Australian Great War Association</a> met in Goulburn, NSW from around Australia, Victoria, South Australian, Tasmania and NSW<span style="font-size: small;"> </span><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">for a WW1 training weekend at
the Old Gouburn Brewery - 14 - 16 Feb 14 (AIF) -
"Storm clouds over Europe".</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">It was an open invitation to all WW1 groups
and individuals, including Germans and local Lighthorse groups to come and
participate in a range of training activities including drill and tactical
displays and a photo shoot of a Casualty Clearing Station. The Goulburn brewery is a
fascinating period venue (1830's) which looks a lot like a Belgian/French farm complex.
Camping and accommodation was in period style rooms or in tents (our option).</span></span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">The storm clouds were also over Goulburn, much to the pleasure of the locals because rain had been absent for most of summer. As the weather was very wet, it curtailed some activities such as the setting up of our outdoor casualty clearing station, instead we two nurses and medical officer sat and discussed all the things we would need to create an interesting and informative display in the future. While we did this, the men drilled!</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">Our bell tent was warm, dry and comfy, the amusing thing is that they are ex Girl Guide tents, so very familiar to J-L and I!</span></span><br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LN68_whHnTM/UwFpk_GVhaI/AAAAAAAAFR8/8pGqNORCDNc/s1600/IMG_4422.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LN68_whHnTM/UwFpk_GVhaI/AAAAAAAAFR8/8pGqNORCDNc/s1600/IMG_4422.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
Apologies for the modern camping gear in the shot, I took this at the very beginning, then my phone batteries ran out!<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-S45mi0es8es/UwFpzPEIArI/AAAAAAAAFSE/buDm0bgkGvQ/s1600/IMG_4446.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-S45mi0es8es/UwFpzPEIArI/AAAAAAAAFSE/buDm0bgkGvQ/s1600/IMG_4446.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">Inside the tent, I felt like the nurses on Lemnos in their tents in bad weather, it really gave me a full appreciation of how hard it would have been to keep clean and neat for the wards.</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">On the friday night we went into the town for a dinner in full kit, I'm sure some people thought we nurses were nuns, lol!</span></span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-civF7tz7te4/UwFrozeaiKI/AAAAAAAAFSQ/EHvL0Am3fEA/s1600/IMG_4443.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-civF7tz7te4/UwFrozeaiKI/AAAAAAAAFSQ/EHvL0Am3fEA/s1600/IMG_4443.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
J-L and I, she is building the persona of an Ambulance Officer along with my nurse persona.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QcezyDf5b_M/UwFsDIxT1FI/AAAAAAAAFSY/WkKg9RsCYsE/s1600/IMG_4444.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QcezyDf5b_M/UwFsDIxT1FI/AAAAAAAAFSY/WkKg9RsCYsE/s1600/IMG_4444.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
Here's more of the group at Friday's dinner.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tEH0eDFoXRc/UwFsUXhlcWI/AAAAAAAAFSg/BR-WBULyMM0/s1600/IMG_4448.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tEH0eDFoXRc/UwFsUXhlcWI/AAAAAAAAFSg/BR-WBULyMM0/s1600/IMG_4448.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
Myself and the other nurse, all the way from Tasmania! She is in the Walking Out dress and I am in the Ward Dress.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-87SDM5lcjU8/UwFsyF7k3II/AAAAAAAAFSs/aOb0CyK2uLE/s1600/IMG_4453.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-87SDM5lcjU8/UwFsyF7k3II/AAAAAAAAFSs/aOb0CyK2uLE/s1600/IMG_4453.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
Myself and our commander, John organised this fabulous weekend. I am wearing the uniform created from my <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/patterns/pattern/aans-ward-dress" target="_blank">WWI AANS dressmaking pattern</a><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PjCmjLBbXEQ/UwFt3UPCOqI/AAAAAAAAFTE/3QXKLfNbcY0/s1600/IMG_4440.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PjCmjLBbXEQ/UwFt3UPCOqI/AAAAAAAAFTE/3QXKLfNbcY0/s1600/IMG_4440.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
Before going out on Friday night for dinner, more soldiers arrived on Saturday. In the afternoon on Saturday we had a series of talks on Australia in WWI, I gave a talk on the AANS and their uniform, which was politely received by all the blokes, LOL!<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Q-8aW7InTF8/UwFwTp8GLmI/AAAAAAAAFTo/7SnaC5lTWhI/s1600/IMG_4457.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Q-8aW7InTF8/UwFwTp8GLmI/AAAAAAAAFTo/7SnaC5lTWhI/s1600/IMG_4457.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
Mike Crowther presenting on WWI Australian soldiers<br />
That evening was the Mess dinner.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XIOEE_gaxUI/UwFwwwbZE8I/AAAAAAAAFTw/L8Yg_3zBfdg/s1600/IMG_4460.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XIOEE_gaxUI/UwFwwwbZE8I/AAAAAAAAFTw/L8Yg_3zBfdg/s1600/IMG_4460.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
The meal was resplendent with our own Piper.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ORmjgeLnfis/UwFunFmEroI/AAAAAAAAFTQ/PXa4m5fPCn8/s1600/IMG_4496.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ORmjgeLnfis/UwFunFmEroI/AAAAAAAAFTQ/PXa4m5fPCn8/s1600/IMG_4496.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
At the wonderful 1840s bar. Sadly blurred again, the champagne was obviously affecting my photography that night!<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4XT9Ht92ZY4/UwFvABg-ZUI/AAAAAAAAFTY/oU95dPhyXH4/s1600/IMG_4483.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4XT9Ht92ZY4/UwFvABg-ZUI/AAAAAAAAFTY/oU95dPhyXH4/s1600/IMG_4483.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
More of our dinners. Aren't the roof beams fabulous in this shot? All tongue and groove oak beams, work seldom seen today.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wMMCje3ZG0M/UwFvdLQkDaI/AAAAAAAAFTg/DbvHkAzY-sE/s1600/IMG_4501.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wMMCje3ZG0M/UwFvdLQkDaI/AAAAAAAAFTg/DbvHkAzY-sE/s1600/IMG_4501.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
A final shot of our Piper. The weekend was great fun and inspiring. It would be great to have more nurse join our NSW troupe of the AGWA, if your interested in helping us demonstrate and display please contact me through the Tailor's Apprentice's <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/contact/new_contact" target="_blank">contact page.</a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-o5EQOBdJk5g/UwFyonyUxWI/AAAAAAAAFT8/IuAMv_3jbb4/s1600/IMG_4500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-o5EQOBdJk5g/UwFyonyUxWI/AAAAAAAAFT8/IuAMv_3jbb4/s1600/IMG_4500.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
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<i><b>*********************************************************************************************** </b></i><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJ6CkJHEWSs/UWUZt8hGO1I/AAAAAAAAEl4/_nraLiXO-QA/s1600/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-1.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJ6CkJHEWSs/UWUZt8hGO1I/AAAAAAAAEl4/_nraLiXO-QA/s320/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-1.png" height="320" width="152" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: purple;"><i><b><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="background-color: white;"><b>I'm The Tailor's Apprentice, maker of <a href="http://thetailorsapprentice.createsend1.com/t/j-l-thdlxl-l-g/" style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">The Miss Page 1940s reproduction patterns</a>,
gowns developed from pattern pieces found amongst the remnants of Miss
Violet Florence Page’s life and work. Affordable, elegant, and unique
garments from the 1940s war years.</b></span> </span></b></b></i></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: purple;"><i><b><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">All my patterns are available
on <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/StitchingUpHistory" target="_blank">Etsy</a> and my <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php" target="_blank">website</a>
where you'll find out more about me as well. This year I am publishing
an 1820s gown wardrobe pattern and an Australian Army Nurses Services
WWI uniform pattern.</span></b></b></i></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: magenta;"><b><br /></b></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><b><span style="color: purple;"><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">If
you'd liked to be included on my mailing list for events, pattern
release dates and interesting snippets about vintage and historic
sewing, please subscribe to my Newsletter on The Tailor's Apprentice <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/about_me/subscribe" target="_blank">website</a>.</span></b></span></b></i></span></div>
</div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05285873564550568786noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3928487848992149688.post-4402135586406614972014-01-08T14:46:00.000+11:002014-01-08T14:46:53.638+11:00Making my own Regency dance slippers and boots<br />
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<img alt="" class="size-medium wp-image-16141" src="http://janeaustensworld.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/1812_20-boots-v_a.jpg?w=227&h=300" title="1812_20 boots V_A" /></div>
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<img src="http://www.blockaderunner.com/images/eb271a.gif" /> </div>
<br />
I am running a demonstration class on how to create your own Regency dance slippers at this year's (2014) <a href="http://www.janeaustenfestival.com/info.html" target="_blank">Jane Austen Festival Australia</a>. Dance shoes of the period. as can be seen below, were often soft silk slippers, tied on simply with ribbons. They would have shoe roses attached with pins and the soles would be silk to enable good movement on the dance floor. There are contemporary accounts of slippers soles being ripped to shreds over the duration of a ball!<br />
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<a href="http://cstcostumes.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/victorian-dance-shoes.jpg?w=300&h=191" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" border="0" class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-30" src="http://cstcostumes.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/victorian-dance-shoes.jpg?w=300&h=191" height="191" title="victorian dance shoes" width="300" /></a></div>
I was originally inspired by a blog post from the Oregon Regency Society, <a href="http://oregonregency.blogspot.com.au/2010/08/miss-charlottes-shoe-tutorial.html" target="_blank">Miss Charlotte's Shoe Tutorial</a>. Miss Charlotte's method is easy, the shoes are machine,stitched, and for those of us who like our shoes to match or compliment our gown, we can be well satisfied.<br />
<br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"> </span></span><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wxpiM-iDH24/UQqE-IbBqSI/AAAAAAAAAtY/5rlaMVG5BwU/s400/slipper+blue+Met+1790-99.jpg" height="193" width="400" /></div>
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<img src="http://www.blockaderunner.com/images/eb271a.gif" /></div>
I then read <i>Every Lady Her Own Shoemaker, by A Lady, </i>a reprint I found in a second hand book shop. A very lucky find indeed! Its a small booklet <span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">originally published in
1855. Its a great
instructional manual if you would like to try your hand at being a
cobbler and gives you an understanding of period shoe making. The ladies shoes in this book are made of light
material and require no heavy equipment to make. There is page after
page of instructions and pull out pages of patterns so you can cut your
shoes out with a minimum of trouble. It also has designs for ladies
gaiters. The book strongly suggests that you should use rubbers (1851
Goodyear's patent) to protect your shoes in damp weather and to use a
sewing machine to speed the work along. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;"><br /></span></span>
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">So being equipped in different methods, contemporary and mid 19th century I set off to create. So far I have made a test shoe toile in calico to get the fit right and I tried my hand at a nankin boot.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">My first slippers were inspired by these lovely silk </span></span>Blue Slippers 1790-99 <br />
<img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wxpiM-iDH24/UQqE-IbBqSI/AAAAAAAAAtY/5rlaMVG5BwU/s400/slipper+blue+Met+1790-99.jpg" height="193" width="400" /><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-size: small;">My apprentice Phoebe followed my instructions and reproduced a very fair copy of an early period slipper.</span></span><br />
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While she did that, I mocked up a Nankin half boot, using the same pattern idea, but elongating the top. I was inspired by these 1812-1820 ladies boots. Image @Victoria & Albert Museum.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-S7MrrqKrp8c/UszEzl5cVZI/AAAAAAAAFMs/71LZCJ5JLxc/s1600/IMG_3834.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-S7MrrqKrp8c/UszEzl5cVZI/AAAAAAAAFMs/71LZCJ5JLxc/s1600/IMG_3834.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a> <img alt="" class="size-medium wp-image-16141" src="http://janeaustensworld.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/1812_20-boots-v_a.jpg?w=227&h=300" title="1812_20 boots V_A" /><br />
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I shall create patterns for this tutorial at the Jane Austen Festival Australia, I'm looking forward to sharing what I have learnt!<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: purple;"><i><b><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="background-color: white;"><b>I'm The Tailor's Apprentice, maker of <a href="http://thetailorsapprentice.createsend1.com/t/j-l-thdlxl-l-g/" style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">The Miss Page 1940s reproduction patterns</a>,
gowns developed from pattern pieces found amongst the remnants of Miss
Violet Florence Page’s life and work. Affordable, elegant, and unique
garments from the 1940s war years.</b></span> </span></b></b></i></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: purple;"><i><b><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">All my patterns are available
on <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/StitchingUpHistory" target="_blank">Etsy</a> and my <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php" target="_blank">website</a>
where you'll find out more about me as well. This year I am publishing
an 1820s gown wardrobe pattern and an Australian Army Nurses Services
WWI uniform pattern.</span></b></b></i></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: magenta;"><b><br /></b></span></span></span></div>
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release dates and interesting snippets about vintage and historic
sewing, please subscribe to my Newsletter on The Tailor's Apprentice <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/about_me/subscribe" target="_blank">website</a>.</span></b></span></b></i></span></div>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05285873564550568786noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3928487848992149688.post-82406987632558411562014-01-08T13:53:00.000+11:002014-01-08T14:51:25.294+11:00Reproducing a 50s shirtwaist dress for a client<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EFaUrbXv9YQ/Usy5Euq6RMI/AAAAAAAAFLg/eERu10OKjFE/s1600/IMG_3758.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EFaUrbXv9YQ/Usy5Euq6RMI/AAAAAAAAFLg/eERu10OKjFE/s1600/IMG_3758.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></div>
Last year I was asked by a new client to help her preserve her vintage gowns by reproducing them for her so she can wear the new one, rather than the vintage dress. I thought this would be an interesting project and I was right. We started with the 50s shirt waist dress on the left.<br />
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The bodice is a simple blouse style, the skirt however is a different kettle of fish, its pleated in sets of three and the front zip is hidden in a nest of pleats. <br />
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I took a copy pattern from the bodice and fitted it to the client, we lengthened the waist as the original was too short for her. I then started on the skirt. The fabric I was using was modern width and I had to calculate the width of the skirt and the pleats required to fit the waist of the bodice. Now that was fun ... not really, but an interesting exercise at least. I managed to finish the dress for a Christmas party.<br />
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Here's the new fabric, roses and scissors, really unusual! Far more busy and way less geometric than the original dress. A fabric will always change the outcome of a pattern, the fabric drape, colours patterns, all influence the style. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WC0RWQBTlMA/Usy6__p5W9I/AAAAAAAAFLs/5Ie3_z3p7jc/s1600/IMG_3757.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WC0RWQBTlMA/Usy6__p5W9I/AAAAAAAAFLs/5Ie3_z3p7jc/s1600/IMG_3757.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The fabric chosen for the reproduction</td></tr>
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Here's the result. I'm pleased with it and the client loves it, she wants 12 more in different fabrics, LOL! I'd prefer to move onto the next gown in her collection!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wugfgC1Kkww/UszLEgA40LI/AAAAAAAAFNc/GJ7R-eDas7o/s1600/50s+shirtwaist.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wugfgC1Kkww/UszLEgA40LI/AAAAAAAAFNc/GJ7R-eDas7o/s1600/50s+shirtwaist.jpg" height="640" width="412" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gown on the client</td></tr>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJ6CkJHEWSs/UWUZt8hGO1I/AAAAAAAAEl4/_nraLiXO-QA/s1600/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-1.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJ6CkJHEWSs/UWUZt8hGO1I/AAAAAAAAEl4/_nraLiXO-QA/s320/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-1.png" height="320" width="152" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: purple;"><i><b><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="background-color: white;"><b>I'm The Tailor's Apprentice, maker of <a href="http://thetailorsapprentice.createsend1.com/t/j-l-thdlxl-l-g/" style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">The Miss Page 1940s reproduction patterns</a>,
gowns developed from pattern pieces found amongst the remnants of Miss
Violet Florence Page’s life and work. Affordable, elegant, and unique
garments from the 1940s war years.</b></span> </span></b></b></i></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: purple;"><i><b><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">All my patterns are available
on <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/StitchingUpHistory" target="_blank">Etsy</a> and my <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php" target="_blank">website</a>
where you'll find out more about me as well. This year I am publishing
an 1820s gown wardrobe pattern and an Australian Army Nurses Services
WWI uniform pattern.</span></b></b></i></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: magenta;"><b><br /></b></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><b><span style="color: purple;"><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">If
you'd liked to be included on my mailing list for events, pattern
release dates and interesting snippets about vintage and historic
sewing, please subscribe to my Newsletter on The Tailor's Apprentice <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/about_me/subscribe" target="_blank">website</a>.</span></b></span></b></i></span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05285873564550568786noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3928487848992149688.post-51582045494552099222014-01-08T13:27:00.002+11:002014-01-08T13:54:13.390+11:0012th Night Feast - making medievial fruit mince pies<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SRHDAOT7MNY/UsyqxK193GI/AAAAAAAAFKg/OulP_mD8ZUM/s1600/IMG_4121.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SRHDAOT7MNY/UsyqxK193GI/AAAAAAAAFKg/OulP_mD8ZUM/s1600/IMG_4121.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The feasting table</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We celebrated 12th Night with a food feast for 22 friends. It was a marvellous evening, we ate, we laughed, our two Kings of Misrule, who found the token in the deserts, kept us entertained and made us entertain them with games and caroling. We played 'Snip Snap Dragon', 'Pass the Lemon' (my stomach muscles are still sore from laughing!), we sang carols, played rhyming and category games and had a fabulous time.<br />
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The food was a mix of contemporary and historic recipes, the oldest being a fruit mince pie recipe from 1498. I found the recipe on the interwebs and didn't book mark it and can no longer find it, so I am writing it here while its still in my memory because they were delicious!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hCK6tZdG0Fk/Usyy5OANNOI/AAAAAAAAFKw/1L-IQnPgNZE/s1600/IMG_4120.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hCK6tZdG0Fk/Usyy5OANNOI/AAAAAAAAFKw/1L-IQnPgNZE/s1600/IMG_4120.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fruit mince pies with pork mince</td></tr>
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<b>Fruit mince pies from 1498</b><br />
The filling makes approx 30 small pies <b><br /></b><br />
Enough short crust pastry to make 30 small pies, home made or shop bought<br />
<i>Pie filling</i><br />
500 gms of pork mince<br />
1 cup of fortified wine (I used port) <br />
6 strands of saffron in a cup of warm water<br />
1 teaspoon ground pepper<br />
1 teaspoon salt <br />
1 teaspoon cinamon<br />
1 teaspoon allspice<br />
1 teaspoon ground mace (I used nutmeg)<br />
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves<br />
1 apple, peeled and grated<br />
Rind of one orange<br />
2 tablespoons vinegar or verjuice <br />
60 gms of breadcrumbs <br />
1 cup of chopped prunes<br />
1 cup of chopped dates<br />
1 cup of chopped raisins<br />
1 egg <br />
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Mix all the pie filling ingredients in a bowl, cover and place in fridge, allow all the flavours to mature over 24 hours.<br />
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Make 30 small pie cases, I didn't use a pie top, but you could. Then, place your mince mixture into your pastry cases, bake for 15 minutes or until your pastry is brown and the mixture cooked. I taste tested it to be sure :)<br />
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N.B. because of the meat, don't keep the mixture longer than 3 days in the fridge before baking.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1Gr4ZsNLKgY/Usy13uvMsjI/AAAAAAAAFK8/G_sVjYNopBE/s1600/IMG_4124.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1Gr4ZsNLKgY/Usy13uvMsjI/AAAAAAAAFK8/G_sVjYNopBE/s1600/IMG_4124.JPG" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Explaining Kings of Misrule</td></tr>
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<b>Our 12th Night Feast menu:</b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><b> </b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><b>Wassail!</b></span><br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"></span></blockquote>
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><b>12th Night Renaissance Feast</b><br /><br /><b>First remove</b><br /><br />Pea pottage with mint and sour cream<br />Or<br />Roasted Pumpkin pottage <br />Limited availability<br />Fruit mince pies <br />Dried fruits and spices from the Holy Land, mixed with pork and macerated in port <br />Pork wrapped in pastry<br />Pork, parsley, onion, spices from the Holy Land<br />Dipping sauce <br />Yogurt, orange peel and mint<br /><br /><b>Second remove</b><br /><br />Pastistiou<br />A delicacy from Greece with the new food sensation, pasta<br />Beef, spices from the Holy Land, tomatoes from the Americas, eggs, milk, wheat pasta<br /><br /><b>Third remove</b><br /><br />Turkey <br />Stuffed with pork, turkey & cranberries from the Americas, spices from the Holy Land<br />Roasted potatoes<br />A new vegetable from the Americas<br />Parsnip, porcini and potatoes cooked in cream<br />French beans with pancetta<br /><br /><b>Fourth remove</b><br />King Cake<br />Natale Torte<br /><br />To give us our Kings of Misrule for this 12th Night festivities, a bean has been placed in both cakes. If you get the bean, you will be crowned King of Misrule and J-L shall give you a list of entertainments to keep the company amused.<br /><br />Most dishes are based on Renaissance recipes<br /><b>Wassail!</b></span></blockquote>
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Passing the lemon!<br />
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Its lovely to see adults playing!<br />
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The laughter was so loud the neighbours remarked on it next day :)<br />
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Our dog Astro, King of Misrule all year round!<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: purple;"><i><b><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="background-color: white;"><b>I'm The Tailor's Apprentice, maker of <a href="http://thetailorsapprentice.createsend1.com/t/j-l-thdlxl-l-g/" style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">The Miss Page 1940s reproduction patterns</a>,
gowns developed from pattern pieces found amongst the remnants of Miss
Violet Florence Page’s life and work. Affordable, elegant, and unique
garments from the 1940s war years.</b></span> </span></b></b></i></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: purple;"><i><b><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">All my patterns are available
on <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/StitchingUpHistory" target="_blank">Etsy</a> and my <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php" target="_blank">website</a>
where you'll find out more about me as well. This year I am publishing
an 1820s gown wardrobe pattern and an Australian Army Nurses Services
WWI uniform pattern.</span></b></b></i></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: magenta;"><b><br /></b></span></span></span></div>
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release dates and interesting snippets about vintage and historic
sewing, please subscribe to my Newsletter on The Tailor's Apprentice <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/about_me/subscribe" target="_blank">website</a>.</span></b></span></b></i></span></div>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05285873564550568786noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3928487848992149688.post-21319158350811671892013-12-24T10:33:00.000+11:002014-01-08T13:54:31.436+11:00Regency Kitchen Pepper by 'A Lady' and a recipe for Black Pepper Cookies<br />
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<img alt="" class="aligncenter size-medium wp-image-1386" src="http://www.glutenfreehelp.info/wp-content/uploads/2010/02/securedownload-5-300x199.jpg" height="199" title="Spices" width="300" /> </div>
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I came across this Regency recipe for <i>Kitchen Pepper by A Lady from 1807</i> on <a href="http://www.oldschoolpastry.com/2011/02/foodie-friday-homemade-seasonings-and.html" target="_blank">Old School Pastry</a> a few days ago, I thought it looked delicious and was not mistaken. Its a perfect gift for Yule as all the combined spices smell just like Christmas in a jar! </div>
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It would be great to use in cakes, biscuits, curries, and as A Lady herself suggests: to flavour meats, sauces and soups. I'm using it today in my <i>Black Pepper Cookie</i> recipe (see below).</div>
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<b>Kitchen pepper 1807 From <i>The New System of Domestic Cookery</i>, by "A Lady," from 1807</b><br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<i>Original recipe:</i><br />
<i>Mix the finest powder, one ounce of ginger; of cinnamon, black
pepper, nutmeg, and Jamaica pepper, half an ounce each: ten cloves, and
six ounces of salt. Keep it in a bottle - it is an agreeable addition to
brown sauces or soups.</i><br />
<br />
<i><i>Spice in powder, kept in small bottles close stopped, goes much
further than when used whole. It must be dried before pounded; and
should be done in quantities that may be wanted in three or four months.
Nutmeg need not be done - but the others should be kept in separate
bottles, with a little label on each.</i> (http://www.oldschoolpastry.com/2011/02/foodie-friday-homemade-seasonings-and.html)</i> </blockquote>
<a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2721/4451688948_3c241d12bb.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img alt="DSC_0023" border="0" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2721/4451688948_3c241d12bb.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a>Its Christmas Eve in Australia, a gentle rain is falling, the rain water
tank is filling and we are all cooling down from the heat wave of the
last few days, where temperatures reached 40oC. even in my cool Blue
Mountains.<br />
<br />
So with the cooler weather making baking more bearable I decided to make
my Black Pepper Cookies as Christmas treats for tomorrow and use the
Kitchen Pepper as the replacement spice mix for them.<br />
<br />
I've been making these for a very long time, my recipe book
says they are American, but I have no idea if they are. I reckon they
may have been adapted from Dutch speculaas biscuits. They are delicious,
full of rich chocolate and the pepper and spices work so well together,
a perfect Christmas Cookie. <br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><b>Black Pepper Cookies </b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">(The Complete Vegetarian Cookbook. London & New York, Marshall Cavendish, 1973 p.137</span><b>)</b>Makes about 36 biscuits<b><br /><br />Ingredients<br /> </b>• 3/4 cup unsalted butter, softened<br /> • 3/4 teaspoon finely ground pepper, plus more for sprinkling<br /> • 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon<br /> • 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves<br /> • 1/4 teaspoon coarse salt<br /> • 1 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract<br /> • 1 1/2 cups self raising flour<br /> • 3/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder<br /> • 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon good-quality instant espresso powder<br /> • 1 cup sugar (I use brown sugar)<br /> • 1 large egg<br /><br /><b>Directions:</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">Heat oven to 375oF, Gas Mark 5 or 190oF. Lightly grease a baking sheet with butter. Set aside. In a medium sized mixing bowl cream the butter, pepper, cinnamon, cloves and vanilla extract together with a wooden spoon until the mixture is soft. Beat in the sugar and continue beating until the mixture is light and fluffy. Beat in the egg. Sift flour, salt and cocoa into the bowl and blend the dry ingredients thoroughly with the butter and sugar mixture until a firm dough is formed. Lightly flour your hands and roll spoonfuls of the dough into balls about 1" diameter. Place balls on baking sheet, leaving 1 1/2" space between each one. With the heel of your hand, gently flatten the dough balls to 1/4' thick. Place the baking sheet in the centre of the oven and bake biscuits for 12 minutes. Remove from baking sheet from the oven. Transfer to a wire rack and ;eave them to cool completely before serving or storing.</span><b><br /></b><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: red;"><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><i>Have yourself a very Merry Christmas </i></span></b></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: red;"><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><i>and a </i></span></b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="color: red;"><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><i>New Year full of joy and creativity!</i></span></b></span></span><br />
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<i><b>*********************************************************************************************** </b></i><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJ6CkJHEWSs/UWUZt8hGO1I/AAAAAAAAEl4/_nraLiXO-QA/s1600/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-1.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJ6CkJHEWSs/UWUZt8hGO1I/AAAAAAAAEl4/_nraLiXO-QA/s320/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-1.png" height="320" width="152" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: purple;"><i><b><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="background-color: white;"><b>I'm The Tailor's Apprentice, maker of <a href="http://thetailorsapprentice.createsend1.com/t/j-l-thdlxl-l-g/" style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">The Miss Page 1940s reproduction patterns</a>,
gowns developed from pattern pieces found amongst the remnants of Miss
Violet Florence Page’s life and work. Affordable, elegant, and unique
garments from the 1940s war years.</b></span> </span></b></b></i></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: purple;"><i><b><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">All my patterns are available
on <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/StitchingUpHistory" target="_blank">Etsy</a> and my <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php" target="_blank">website</a>
where you'll find out more about me as well. This year I am publishing
an 1820s gown wardrobe pattern and an Australian Army Nurses Services
WWI uniform pattern.</span></b></b></i></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: magenta;"><b><br /></b></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><b><span style="color: purple;"><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">If
you'd liked to be included on my mailing list for events, pattern
release dates and interesting snippets about vintage and historic
sewing, please subscribe to my Newsletter on The Tailor's Apprentice <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/about_me/subscribe" target="_blank">website</a>.</span></b></span></b></i></span></div>
</div>
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<i> </i>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05285873564550568786noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3928487848992149688.post-70247956077935237032013-11-25T13:34:00.001+11:002013-11-25T13:34:05.509+11:0050 years of Dr Who and the marvellous TARDIS party<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-etTZfBnXhiM/UpKmHJgZCAI/AAAAAAAAFIQ/s3ysdCPPVqQ/s1600/IMG_3570.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-etTZfBnXhiM/UpKmHJgZCAI/AAAAAAAAFIQ/s3ysdCPPVqQ/s320/IMG_3570.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
What a fabulous weekend of <a href="http://www.doctorwho.tv/50-years/" target="_blank">50 years of Dr. Who</a> events and I really enjoyed the Dr. Who documentary created by the BBC. The highlight of the weekend was, of course, the fabulous movie, The Day of the Doctor.<br />
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We celebrated with a party, it was held at a friend's place and we had a smashing time. The costumes were amazing. I wore my TARDIS apron that I created last week and you can read my <a href="http://thetailorsapprentice.blogspot.com.au/2013/11/a-tardis-apron-to-celebrate-50-years-of.html" target="_blank">'how-to' tutorial</a> and make your very own. Its a great idea for a Christmas present. I'm happy to create one for you as well and you can order your very own on <a href="https://www.etsy.com/listing/170580801/dr-who-tardis-apron?ref=shop_home_active" target="_blank">Etsy</a>.<br />
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I thought you'd all enjoy seeing the creativity displayed by all the guests at the party.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-u1oJ0MNRUj4/UpKw7QoDFyI/AAAAAAAAFIg/AMJZI7frEvg/s1600/IMG_3604.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-u1oJ0MNRUj4/UpKw7QoDFyI/AAAAAAAAFIg/AMJZI7frEvg/s320/IMG_3604.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-14s_395xNkc/UpKw9u7VU3I/AAAAAAAAFIk/34enHb43qlo/s1600/IMG_3618.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-14s_395xNkc/UpKw9u7VU3I/AAAAAAAAFIk/34enHb43qlo/s320/IMG_3618.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LhSN_xQu-t4/UpKydFhygkI/AAAAAAAAFI0/SU-Yp4-M9W4/s1600/IMG_3573.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LhSN_xQu-t4/UpKydFhygkI/AAAAAAAAFI0/SU-Yp4-M9W4/s320/IMG_3573.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I wore my vintage 1950s circular skirt underneath, it has images of Paris printed all over it so I could be 'bigger on the inside'</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KRh8K9fhWo0/UpKyq2llD4I/AAAAAAAAFI8/Lt35uCfa_kg/s1600/IMG_3583.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KRh8K9fhWo0/UpKyq2llD4I/AAAAAAAAFI8/Lt35uCfa_kg/s320/IMG_3583.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-I0zft7UvChk/UpKy16JVguI/AAAAAAAAFJE/5JRPkBKtWzU/s1600/IMG_3586.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-I0zft7UvChk/UpKy16JVguI/AAAAAAAAFJE/5JRPkBKtWzU/s320/IMG_3586.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U8th9r5uwwU/UpKzZv-w9VI/AAAAAAAAFJM/uAcS2GC0OKs/s1600/IMG_3596.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-U8th9r5uwwU/UpKzZv-w9VI/AAAAAAAAFJM/uAcS2GC0OKs/s320/IMG_3596.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-51RbLwbYynY/UpKztOUe4SI/AAAAAAAAFJU/4p3OF3eAplw/s1600/IMG_3603.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-51RbLwbYynY/UpKztOUe4SI/AAAAAAAAFJU/4p3OF3eAplw/s320/IMG_3603.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-g39vaGH5Z_o/UpKzvs1EwfI/AAAAAAAAFJg/PLnvcthZzHQ/s1600/IMG_3617.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-g39vaGH5Z_o/UpKzvs1EwfI/AAAAAAAAFJg/PLnvcthZzHQ/s320/IMG_3617.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iZwvM_JhHfA/UpKzvNT-7iI/AAAAAAAAFJc/s4BL_0-M6AE/s1600/IMG_3629.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iZwvM_JhHfA/UpKzvNT-7iI/AAAAAAAAFJc/s4BL_0-M6AE/s320/IMG_3629.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<i><b>*********************************************************************************************** </b></i><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJ6CkJHEWSs/UWUZt8hGO1I/AAAAAAAAEl4/_nraLiXO-QA/s1600/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-1.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJ6CkJHEWSs/UWUZt8hGO1I/AAAAAAAAEl4/_nraLiXO-QA/s320/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-1.png" width="152" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: purple;"><i><b><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="background-color: white;"><b>I'm The Tailor's Apprentice, maker of <a href="http://thetailorsapprentice.createsend1.com/t/j-l-thdlxl-l-g/" style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">The Miss Page 1940s reproduction patterns</a>,
gowns developed from pattern pieces found amongst the remnants of Miss
Violet Florence Page’s life and work. Affordable, elegant, and unique
garments from the 1940s war years.</b></span> </span></b></b></i></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: purple;"><i><b><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">All my patterns are available
on <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/StitchingUpHistory" target="_blank">Etsy</a> and my <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php" target="_blank">website</a>
where you'll find out more about me as well. This year I am publishing
an 1820s gown wardrobe pattern and an Australian Army Nurses Services
WWI uniform pattern.</span></b></b></i></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: magenta;"><b><br /></b></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><b><span style="color: purple;"><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">If
you'd liked to be included on my mailing list for events, pattern
release dates and interesting snippets about vintage and historic
sewing, please subscribe to my Newsletter on The Tailor's Apprentice <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/about_me/subscribe" target="_blank">website</a>.</span></b></span></b></i></span></div>
</div>
<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05285873564550568786noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3928487848992149688.post-68789354604126593172013-11-24T09:00:00.000+11:002013-11-24T09:00:04.376+11:00A TARDIS apron to celebrate 50 years of Dr Who, plus, how to make it for you!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yzdCfXc_dgY/UomE_sKB78I/AAAAAAAAFFg/x_sPFcSCPUg/s1600/IMG_3555.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yzdCfXc_dgY/UomE_sKB78I/AAAAAAAAFFg/x_sPFcSCPUg/s320/IMG_3555.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
I have been a fan of Dr Who since I was a little girl. I was enthralled by the program, watching it on our B&W telly on Friday nights on the ABC. I have known all the Drs. and all of them have a soft spot in my heart.<br />
<br />
I had two reasons to make the TARDIS apron. The first; to wear it to a friend's 50 Years of Dr. Who party.<br />
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The second; to have a costume for me and Astro my chihuahua to wear in the Lawson Dog Show owner 'look alike' competition last Sunday (17th Nov.). We had a fabulous time and won our section! Very pleased by that.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nXjnHmAN1Wc/UomRF8t1g7I/AAAAAAAAFHU/kwrxM0EKDvQ/s1600/IMG_3563.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nXjnHmAN1Wc/UomRF8t1g7I/AAAAAAAAFHU/kwrxM0EKDvQ/s320/IMG_3563.jpg" width="240" /></a>I thought others would like to know how I put my apron together, its pretty easy to do and I scanned the interwebs for other examples to get an idea of what was possible, you can see some of these on my <a href="http://www.pinterest.com/StitchUpHistory/aprons/" target="_blank">Aprons</a> Pinterest board. I also used my TARDIS teapot as a style guide.<br />
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<b>Time to make:</b><br />
5 hours give or take. <br />
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<b>Fabric and sewing notions:</b><br />
I measured my waist width and decided on the apron length, I wanted it just
above my knees. I also wanted a nicely gathered skirt to the apron that went right to the back. I then used these measurements to determine how much fabric I
would need to purchase.<br />
<br />
I then bought 2 metres of dark blue cotton and 1 metre of white cotton fabric. I used some black frabric and ribbon from my sewing stash, I used a Sharpie pen for the writing.<br />
<br />
I used sewing thread from my stash, snap fasteners and 2 hooks & eyes.<br />
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<b>Making up:</b><br />
<b>1. Creating the apron skirt </b><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hiu0O9KhfUw/UomJGBKPS7I/AAAAAAAAFF8/OEvBwCDFatE/s1600/IMG_3543.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hiu0O9KhfUw/UomJGBKPS7I/AAAAAAAAFF8/OEvBwCDFatE/s200/IMG_3543.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
I cut two widths from my fabric (it was 110cm wide) and I stitched them together at the selvedge edge.<br />
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I then cut a curve at the unstitched end for a nice back effect.<br />
<br />
I folded a 1/4" hem (yes I know, I mix my measurements up all the time, you can cope I know, sewists are clever!). Anyways, I folded the hem down with an iron, then folded it on itself and stitched it down with a decorative star stitch. You can see it further down, shows up better on the white fabric. <br />
<br />
The stars represent the outside of the TARDIS travelling through the universe.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Creating the apron bib top</b><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-51IFTePZGNE/UomI8gCrqJI/AAAAAAAAFFw/pkvl4EDPO6g/s1600/IMG_3544.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-51IFTePZGNE/UomI8gCrqJI/AAAAAAAAFFw/pkvl4EDPO6g/s200/IMG_3544.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
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I just measured across my chest to get the width I wanted, choose the width you want, narrow or wide, I went wide. For the length I measured from my collar bone to my waist line.<br />
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I cut out two rectangles in the fashion fabrics and then curved the top ends of the bib front as shown, I wanted the bib top to be lined.<br />
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<b>3. Adding the windows, black edge and writing on the bib front</b><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-X92MMtP8gS0/UomJDyS8IEI/AAAAAAAAFF4/xFhmdTh-Nfc/s1600/IMG_3545.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-X92MMtP8gS0/UomJDyS8IEI/AAAAAAAAFF4/xFhmdTh-Nfc/s200/IMG_3545.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
I centred the top piece for the bib front horozontally. then eye balled a good distance for each of my white 'window's.<br />
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I cut out the windows from the white fabric after measuring the width and length that would work on the bib front and was pleasing to my eye.<br />
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I pinned on as shown.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PxtUQh-s9c4/UomJwIIeiCI/AAAAAAAAFGI/kv9c3rn50E0/s1600/IMG_3546.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PxtUQh-s9c4/UomJwIIeiCI/AAAAAAAAFGI/kv9c3rn50E0/s200/IMG_3546.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
I added some blue ribbon from the stash to represent the door edge and pinned in place.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dPPfk349qIc/UomKKxZ89-I/AAAAAAAAFGY/AMQN6WR4roA/s1600/IMG_3548.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dPPfk349qIc/UomKKxZ89-I/AAAAAAAAFGY/AMQN6WR4roA/s200/IMG_3548.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
I cut my scrap of black fabric to sit at the top of the bib front, pinned in place, I cut a piece of white fabric to size for the POLICE PUBLIC CALL BOX sign. I wrote on it using the Sharpie pen. This was also pinned into place.<br />
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It really should be white writing on black but that was way too fiddly to achieve in the time frame available. Feel free to be more accurate.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zVFpkLCCACw/UomLLIw_axI/AAAAAAAAFGs/T5-WAHTIVHY/s1600/IMG_3549.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zVFpkLCCACw/UomLLIw_axI/AAAAAAAAFGs/T5-WAHTIVHY/s200/IMG_3549.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
I stitched all these pieces on using the star stitch and as you can see caught myself on one of the many pins and bleed on my window, argh! However this allows me to teach you a vintage sewing technique to remove blood stains like this from your sewing fabric.<br />
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Spit on the blood, wet it thoroughly with your spit and rub the blood stain until it dissolves. Yes, the enzymes in your spit will remove your blood pin prick. How cool is that!<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6EEmodPd0nA/UomLLM4jC2I/AAAAAAAAFGw/b35-Yf9aOsw/s1600/IMG_3550.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6EEmodPd0nA/UomLLM4jC2I/AAAAAAAAFGw/b35-Yf9aOsw/s200/IMG_3550.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
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See, blood stain has dissolved, when this dries there may be a slight stain, but usually not.<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RcGjCcEjAP8/UomK4k6SeNI/AAAAAAAAFGg/5c15eZmo3WU/s1600/IMG_3551.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RcGjCcEjAP8/UomK4k6SeNI/AAAAAAAAFGg/5c15eZmo3WU/s200/IMG_3551.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
Attach your bib front back. You can either 'bag it' as I did, or use a bias binding to go around the edge.<br />
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Don't forget to add your apron straps into the top of the bib front, regardless of the method you use.<br />
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<b>Skirt sign pockets:</b><br />
I created white skirt pockets for the POLICE TELEPHONE | FREE USE FOR PUBLIC | etc. and the ST JOHN'S AMBULANCE signs. Sadly no photos of doing this either! I used the Sharpie again to write and draw this up. These pockets were placed in a similar space to the windows on the bib front and stitched down with star stitch, before I did this, I turned under the seams and the hem allowance at the top of each pocket. <br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Attach skirt to waistband:</b><br />
OK, not many pictures of this phase either, I forgot, too busy sewing! <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IvLjJ8LIbBo/UomMGCuaqRI/AAAAAAAAFHI/YvYnw5Wsi_Q/s1600/IMG_3552.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IvLjJ8LIbBo/UomMGCuaqRI/AAAAAAAAFHI/YvYnw5Wsi_Q/s200/IMG_3552.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
I cut a waistband 3" wide and the width of my waist plus 2".<br />
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I gathered the skirt in two sections so I didn't have too long a gather to contend with when sliding to the right size to fit the waistband.<br />
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I gathered the skirt into the waistband and then attached one side of the waistband to the skirt. I didn't use any interfacing, yes, I know I should have, too lazy, I will regret it I am sure! Feel free to use some for yours though.<br />
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Next I folded over the waistband to the wrong side with a 5/8th (1.5cm) seam allowance and pinned in place. I pinned the bib front to the centre point of the waistband. Sorry no photos, le sigh! Make sure you fold your raw edges of the bib front in side it. I then stitched along the edge of the waistband next to the skirt with my star pattern again. Yes, this is 'quick & dirty' sewing! Avert your eyes, or do it properly should you attempt this TARDIS apron.<br />
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<b>Finishing:</b><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ykez2KeLbJo/UomL3WgESMI/AAAAAAAAFG4/AH5CtWrf5Iw/s1600/IMG_3554.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ykez2KeLbJo/UomL3WgESMI/AAAAAAAAFG4/AH5CtWrf5Iw/s200/IMG_3554.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
I added snap fastners to the waistband and neck apron strings to fasten them together. I use hooks and eyes at the waistband.<br />
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You could use buttons and button holes.<br />
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I love the way the skirt curves up at the back. <br />
I turned my partner's top hat into my Police Box light by wrapping
some blue lurex fabric around its rim (see photo below), also from
the stash.<br />
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For the 50 Years of Dr. Who party I will wear the apron with a black tulle skirt, black stockings and boots or shoes (depends on the weather). Pictures soon.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ghxaqweUpZ8/UomXWvXSYKI/AAAAAAAAFHo/RW_tTpT9C_8/s1600/IMG_3558.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ghxaqweUpZ8/UomXWvXSYKI/AAAAAAAAFHo/RW_tTpT9C_8/s320/IMG_3558.jpg" width="240" /></a><b>Lawson Dog Show:</b><br />
Here's the K-9 coat I made for Astro and my TARDIS Police Box 'light' top hat for the 'owner & dog look alike' competition. As I mentioned above, we won first in our category. Most chuffed!<br />
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This is the only photo of the Lawson Dog Show I managed to get as it was raining so hard and was freezing. All I was able to do was stay dry under the umbrella and keep our three dogs warm and dry as possible.<br />
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Its
spring in Australia, so it should have been warm and sunny, last year it was too hot
and a brown snake joined the show ring! I know the professionals took heaps of photos, so when they are available I will link to them.<br />
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Photos of the <i>50 Years of Dr Who </i>will be added in my next blog post. Knowing my clever friends, there will be lots of costumes to astound and delight!<br />
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If you do make the apron, please let me know, I'd love to add your creation to my <a href="http://www.pinterest.com/StitchUpHistory/" target="_blank">Pinterest</a> board!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJ6CkJHEWSs/UWUZt8hGO1I/AAAAAAAAEl4/_nraLiXO-QA/s1600/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-1.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJ6CkJHEWSs/UWUZt8hGO1I/AAAAAAAAEl4/_nraLiXO-QA/s320/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-1.png" width="152" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: purple;"><i><b><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="background-color: white;"><b>I'm The Tailor's Apprentice, maker of <a href="http://thetailorsapprentice.createsend1.com/t/j-l-thdlxl-l-g/" style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">The Miss Page 1940s reproduction patterns</a>,
gowns developed from pattern pieces found amongst the remnants of Miss
Violet Florence Page’s life and work. Affordable, elegant, and unique
garments from the 1940s war years.</b></span> </span></b></b></i></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: purple;"><i><b><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">All my patterns are available
on <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/StitchingUpHistory" target="_blank">Etsy</a> and my <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php" target="_blank">website</a>
where you'll find out more about me as well. This year I am publishing
an 1820s gown wardrobe pattern and an Australian Army Nurses Services
WWI uniform pattern.</span></b></b></i></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: magenta;"><b><br /></b></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><b><span style="color: purple;"><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">If
you'd liked to be included on my mailing list for events, pattern
release dates and interesting snippets about vintage and historic
sewing, please subscribe to my Newsletter on The Tailor's Apprentice <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/about_me/subscribe" target="_blank">website</a>.</span></b></span></b></i></span></div>
</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05285873564550568786noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3928487848992149688.post-60341414932580250572013-11-18T13:48:00.001+11:002013-11-18T13:48:49.592+11:00ReTrash prize winner!I usually don't win competitions, so you could have knocked me over with a feather when I received an email from Nathan of <i><a href="http://www.retrash.com/" target="_blank">ReTrash</a>: Inspiring a sustainable planet </i>telling me I had won their 10/14/2013 <a href="http://us5.campaign-archive1.com/?u=4477a75d77d6f7da495006d88&id=6b47d1dad6" target="_blank">weekly comp</a>! Woot! Now you know that a sustainable planet is a goal that I aim to achieve with my business and if not, well you can read about how I try to do it in my <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/ethical_matters/page/environment" target="_blank">Environment</a> section of my website. I also believe in an <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/ethical_matters/page/fairtrade" target="_blank">ethical and fairtrade business model </a>and <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/ethical_matters/page/giving-to-my-community" target="_blank">helping ou</a>t my local community and so do ReTrash as well. They have just launched a <a href="http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/vervestudio/retrash-upcycling-and-sustainability-for-climate-c" target="_blank">Kickstart Campaign</a> to raise funds to create a book that will help you do this as well.<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Recycled Sterling Silver Earrings by <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/RedPegEcoStudio" target="_blank">Gabrielle McGrath</a></b></span><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GBPaXDz3f2E/Uol3UWOANWI/AAAAAAAAFFU/VUTanMMbxPw/s1600/IMG_3562.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GBPaXDz3f2E/Uol3UWOANWI/AAAAAAAAFFU/VUTanMMbxPw/s320/IMG_3562.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</blockquote>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/RedPegEcoStudio" target="_blank">Earings from Red Peg Ecostudio</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
'Retrash is a sustainability website that promotes the growing movement
of people across the globe that are reducing landfill by upcycling,
repurposing and reusing salvaged materials. Nathan is based in the Blue Mountains Australia, and is the founder of Retrash.' http://www.retrash.com/who-we-are/</blockquote>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>Paper Plate Sculpture by <a href="http://www.janelennon.com.au/" style="color: #cb1c5c; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: underline;" target="_self">Jane Lennon</a> </b></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Uq9ikugqGD4/Uol29Nb9LuI/AAAAAAAAFFA/4K-dgzH5tuo/s1600/IMG_3560.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Uq9ikugqGD4/Uol29Nb9LuI/AAAAAAAAFFA/4K-dgzH5tuo/s320/IMG_3560.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A beautiful plate made from recycled paper by <a href="http://www.janelennon.com.au/" target="_blank">Janet Lennon</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
As I mentioned above, ReTrash have launched a <a href="http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/vervestudio/retrash-upcycling-and-sustainability-for-climate-c" target="_blank">Kickstart</a> Campaign to launch their book Retrash, an inspirational book which showcases the work and personal
lives of more than 80 artists and creative thinkers worldwide. These are
the people leading the global recycling movement. </div>
</blockquote>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>SciFi raygun by <a href="http://www.seanboydjunkartist.com/" style="color: #cb1c5c; font-weight: normal; text-decoration: underline;" target="_self">Sean Boyd</a> </b></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BRnOT7B6Quk/Uol3PRZ909I/AAAAAAAAFFM/0aDOm00nJnQ/s1600/IMG_3561.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BRnOT7B6Quk/Uol3PRZ909I/AAAAAAAAFFM/0aDOm00nJnQ/s320/IMG_3561.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A SteamPunk ray gun created by <a href="http://www.seanboydjunkartist.com/" target="_blank">Sean Boyd </a>Junk Artist</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<h1>
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">How does Retrash book help you benefit the environment?</span></span></h1>
1. You just chose a second hand item over a new one, and in doing so,
prevented more waste going to landfill and our oceans. Not only that but
you are supporting someone who loves to create beautiful things from
waste salvaged from dump sites and thrift shops (Salvation Army, Vinnies
etc). Thrift shops are generally run by charities so they get a
donation as well. </blockquote>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
2. Landfill has a negative effect on climate change by releasing
methane (among others), a harmful greenhouse gas 23 times more potent
than carbon dioxide. By reducing landfill we are reducing these
dangerous gases in our atmosphere and reducing toxic runoff.</blockquote>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
3.
The book is printed on 100% recycled paper, which means that we are
increasing the demand for recycled paper over virgin fibre! (No trees
cut down.)</blockquote>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<b><i>By backing this project, you are helping the
environment in so many positive ways. Let's create change together: the
bigger this project gets, the more waste we save from ending up in
man-made holes in our earth and in our oceans! </i></b>"</blockquote>
I support this project and I'd like you to <a href="http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/vervestudio/retrash-upcycling-and-sustainability-for-climate-c" target="_blank">support</a> it as well. You don't need to give a lot, but the more who contribute, the more chance ReTrash have of being successful in creating their project!<br />
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 15px; text-align: center;">
<i><b>*********************************************************************************************** </b></i><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJ6CkJHEWSs/UWUZt8hGO1I/AAAAAAAAEl4/_nraLiXO-QA/s1600/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-1.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJ6CkJHEWSs/UWUZt8hGO1I/AAAAAAAAEl4/_nraLiXO-QA/s320/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-1.png" width="152" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: purple;"><i><b><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="background-color: white;"><b>I'm The Tailor's Apprentice, maker of <a href="http://thetailorsapprentice.createsend1.com/t/j-l-thdlxl-l-g/" style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">The Miss Page 1940s reproduction patterns</a>,
gowns developed from pattern pieces found amongst the remnants of Miss
Violet Florence Page’s life and work. Affordable, elegant, and unique
garments from the 1940s war years.</b></span> </span></b></b></i></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: purple;"><i><b><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">All my patterns are available
on <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/StitchingUpHistory" target="_blank">Etsy</a> and my <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php" target="_blank">website</a>
where you'll find out more about me as well. This year I am publishing
an 1820s gown wardrobe pattern and an Australian Army Nurses Services
WWI uniform pattern.</span></b></b></i></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: magenta;"><b><br /></b></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><b><span style="color: purple;"><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">If
you'd liked to be included on my mailing list for events, pattern
release dates and interesting snippets about vintage and historic
sewing, please subscribe to my Newsletter on The Tailor's Apprentice <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/about_me/subscribe" target="_blank">website</a>.</span></b></span></b></i></span></div>
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 15px; text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: magenta;"><b><br /></b></span></span></div>
<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<i><br /></i></div>
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05285873564550568786noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3928487848992149688.post-8556913975572465462013-11-11T12:27:00.002+11:002013-11-11T12:27:29.500+11:00Making my Veronica evening gown and capelet from my WWII pattern series: preparing the downloaded e-pattern<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JHaZToDfTno/UoAZPK3TiDI/AAAAAAAAFCw/eS29ItgSe04/s1600/Veronica+with+cape.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JHaZToDfTno/UoAZPK3TiDI/AAAAAAAAFCw/eS29ItgSe04/s320/Veronica+with+cape.jpeg" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/patterns/pattern/veronica" target="_blank">Veronica evening gown and capelet</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A friend is having a 'wear something glamorous from any time period' NYE party and as my sewing commissions often keep me from sewing lovely things for me, I decided to set myself a challenge and make my <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/patterns/pattern/veronica" target="_blank">Veronica evening gown and capelet</a> from my WWII pattern series between now and then... and blog about it as I go.<br />
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Veronica was created from an extant WWI patten drafting book that came from <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/patterns/category/C873" target="_blank">Miss Page's personal sewing memorabilia</a>. Miss Page is the inspiration for my vintage patterns as I am lucky to hold a small collection of her hand sewn vintage garments, sewing patterns, books and other memorabilia from her life as a dress maker in the Blue Mountains where I live. <br />
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Veronica is an example of mid-war pattern cut, when fabric restrictions and ration cards dictated what you could make. Its frugal with fabric, but still lovely and drapes divinely. The caplet provides an added dressy touch and keeps the chill off should you wander out to the verandah for a chat and rest from dancing.<br />
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The pattern comes in three PDFS, the e-pattern, the pattern notes and the 'How to put the pattern together' documents. When you buy it, you are sent all three immediately.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0BgUs3l_B3g/UoAbpXaU4rI/AAAAAAAAFC8/P_j-4f4pAXM/s1600/IMG_3508.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0BgUs3l_B3g/UoAbpXaU4rI/AAAAAAAAFC8/P_j-4f4pAXM/s320/IMG_3508.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
In this post I am showing you how to put your e-pattern together after you have printed it out.<br />
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<span style="color: red;"><span style="background-color: #eeeeee;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><b>How to print: </b></span></span></span><br />
You can download the pattern to a memory stick and take it to a printer to print out on one, or more sheets ... or ... do what I do and print on my home printer.<br />
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When printing at home, set your printing scale to 100% or 'no scaling' to ensure the pattern prints correctly for you and your paper. Also print off page 1a, the test print page, first and check that your grid measures 1" x 1".<br />
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The pattern is designed to fit both A4 and 'Letter' size paper that most of us have in our home printers. Depending on the paper type you use, you may have white edges to trim so the pattern joins correctly. You can see that I need to do this on my Australian A4 paper in the left hand image above. <br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="color: red;">Why e-patterns?</span></span></b><br />
I create e-patterns for many reasons. The first is that in Australia I can't get patterns printed at a cost that makes it possible to sell the pattern on to the customer. The second is that an e-pattern is immediate, you buy it, you receive it, you stick it together and you start creating. If your impatient like me, having to wait many weeks for a pattern to arrive through 'snail mail' is very frustrating. If I want to make it, I want to do it today! The third reason is that its better for the environment, patterns don't get printed until they are needed.<br />
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><b><br /></b></span>
<span style="color: red;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><b>Let's put the pattern together:</b></span></span><br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AT5oBsfoRP0/UoAfjgkvA6I/AAAAAAAAFDI/-YxbTsgiDnQ/s1600/IMG_3530.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AT5oBsfoRP0/UoAfjgkvA6I/AAAAAAAAFDI/-YxbTsgiDnQ/s200/IMG_3530.jpg" width="150" /></a>Every The Tailor's Apprentice pattern page is clearly marked so joining it altogether is easy. A series of numbers and letters are used for each separate printed page, for example:<br />
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1a, 1b, 1c, 1d, 1e, 1f, 1g, 1h, 1i, 1j, 1k<br />
2a, 2b, 2c, 2d, 2e, 2f, 2g, 2h, 2i, 2j, 2k<br />
3a, 3b, 3c, 3d, 3e, 3f, 3g, 3h, 3i, 3j, 3k<br />
4a, 4b, 4c, 4d, 4e, 4f, 4g, 4h, 4i, 4j, 4k<br />
5a, 5b, 5c, 5d, 5e, 5f, 5g, 5h, 5i, 5j, 5k<br />
6a, 6b, 6c, 6d, 6e, 6f, 6g, 6h, 6i, 6j, 6k<br />
7a, 7b, 7c, 7d, 7e, 7f, 7g, 7h, 7i, 7j, 7k<br />
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This enables you to join each consecutive piece together row by row.<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-a93oAsPJNF4/UoAj2kLx-PI/AAAAAAAAFDU/5eV_tn8AJ4E/s1600/IMG_3512.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-a93oAsPJNF4/UoAj2kLx-PI/AAAAAAAAFDU/5eV_tn8AJ4E/s200/IMG_3512.jpg" width="150" /></a><br />
The first page, <i>1a, the test print page</i>, also gives you the pattern layout so you can use this to follow the pattern layout on your bigger pattern pieces.<br />
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I use my cutting bench to piece the pattern together, others use a kitchen table, even the floor. Do whatever makes you the most comfortable. I slide the pattern over the edge as it grows. Piece the pattern pages together row by by row, ensuring that you check your 1" grid at page joins. <br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bht36o1BIM0/UoAkpL4vYfI/AAAAAAAAFDg/DLX1C_xjJ04/s1600/IMG_3510.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bht36o1BIM0/UoAkpL4vYfI/AAAAAAAAFDg/DLX1C_xjJ04/s200/IMG_3510.JPG" width="200" /></a>I sometimes fold the unwanted paper over rather than cutting it. Both methods work well. In the picture to the left you can see me setting up the second row of pattern pages.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rqCnaL7jpMs/UoAm-ePnyTI/AAAAAAAAFDw/5Ys8DFUV8eI/s1600/IMG_3513.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rqCnaL7jpMs/UoAm-ePnyTI/AAAAAAAAFDw/5Ys8DFUV8eI/s200/IMG_3513.jpg" width="150" /></a>Its exciting watching the pattern grow as you join it up.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-naUkZunmwHo/UoAnDBvcHXI/AAAAAAAAFD8/QM7JdttMbzM/s1600/IMG_3514.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-naUkZunmwHo/UoAnDBvcHXI/AAAAAAAAFD8/QM7JdttMbzM/s200/IMG_3514.jpg" width="150" /></a><br />
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Yes, sometimes, even with all your careful work you can go slightly out as I have in the picture on the left.<br />
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This is no big deal, I mark it on the pattern so I know to correct when I cut the dress out and I ensure I correct the error with the next pieces.<br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="color: red;">Adjust the pattern for YOUR body:</span></span></b><br />
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Finally the pattern is created and is ready to be altered to my specific body type. No commercial pattern is made to fit you or me, its based on a pattern sizing of a 'Ms Average, who only exists in a small part of the population. Most of us are different.<br />
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For example, the waist length on my patterns is 16", I'm 14.5" and always have to correct it by shortening it at the appropriate marking on the pattern. 'Ms Average' is also 5'6", I'm 5'4", so I have to shorten the hem considerably at the appropriate marking before cutting.<br />
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This saves time and fabric if you adjust the pattern now.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JEZ4NgZZhlU/UoAp0XViTtI/AAAAAAAAFEM/mOt4xXz4KQY/s1600/IMG_3522.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JEZ4NgZZhlU/UoAp0XViTtI/AAAAAAAAFEM/mOt4xXz4KQY/s200/IMG_3522.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DkB2xUeEl6c/UoAqAF4__UI/AAAAAAAAFEc/GiR3G7MStwk/s1600/IMG_3526.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DkB2xUeEl6c/UoAqAF4__UI/AAAAAAAAFEc/GiR3G7MStwk/s200/IMG_3526.JPG" width="200" /></a><br />
I need to take out 5" of the length at the Lengthen/Shorten line for the skirt length.<br />
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I fold up to the mark place, stick the pattern together.<br />
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Then draw a new skirt line at the sides to the correct angle and trim away the excess. I do this for all pieces of the pattern. Doing this to the skirt hem length means I keep the drape of the original pattern around my feet. I keep all that lovely twirl factor.<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><b><span style="color: red;">Making the test dress (toile):</span></b></span><br />
Next post we will walk through creating the toile to fit my curves. My body shape varies from a 16 to an 18 and I have compensated for this in the pattern before cutting the pieces, but a toile will ensure that I can tweak the changes, especially as I've lost some weight recently and that will affect the fit.<br />
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gowns developed from pattern pieces found amongst the remnants of Miss
Violet Florence Page’s life and work. Affordable, elegant, and unique
garments from the 1940s war years.</b></span> </span></b></b></i></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: purple;"><i><b><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">All my patterns are available
on <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/StitchingUpHistory" target="_blank">Etsy</a> and my <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php" target="_blank">website</a>
where you'll find out more about me as well. This year I am publishing
an 1820s gown wardrobe pattern and an Australian Army Nurses Services
WWI uniform pattern.</span></b></b></i></span></span></div>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05285873564550568786noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3928487848992149688.post-43505696621835850742013-11-08T18:24:00.003+11:002014-02-03T14:58:28.267+11:00The Tailor's Apprentice: Great War 1914 - 1918 AANS uniforms: how the e-patterns were created<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FAoW4nfeOaI/Unx5qZOjQgI/AAAAAAAAFBc/GEf5cI9ZcKo/s1600/BW_under+tree.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FAoW4nfeOaI/Unx5qZOjQgI/AAAAAAAAFBc/GEf5cI9ZcKo/s400/BW_under+tree.jpg" height="400" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>AANS WWI Ward Dress and Walking Out uniform </i>e-pattern </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I was asked by a client to create an Australian WWI nurses uniform for her and then an American friend asked if I could create the same uniform for his nurses of the 5th AIF, USA GWH. So instead of doing individual drafts for everybody, I created a new pattern set for The Tailor's Apprentice and the <i>Great War 1914-18 series </i>was born!<br />
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There are 3 patterns in the <i>Great War 1914-18 </i>series<i>:</i><br />
<ul>
<li><i><i><a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/patterns/pattern/aans-ward-dress" target="_blank">AANS WWI Ward Dress 1914-1919 and Walking Out uniform 1914-16</a> </i></i>(released<i> January 2014, follow link to purchase)</i></li>
<li><i>1916-19 Outdoor uniform Norfolk
jacket and skirt (February/March 2014)</i> </li>
<li><i>Winter long cape and cloak </i>(what we would call a
dustcoat)<i>.</i>(March/April 2014)</li>
</ul>
These e-Patterns will be available for $A19.95 each, or you can purchase the full set of three patterns for $55.95. Join my <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/about_me/subscribe" target="_blank">Newsletter</a> to book all three patterns<i> for the special pre-release price $45.95.</i> Only available to Newsletter readers.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5-hSoeYETK0/UnyLfks92qI/AAAAAAAAFCg/SVciSCrUra8/s1600/ff+verandah.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5-hSoeYETK0/UnyLfks92qI/AAAAAAAAFCg/SVciSCrUra8/s400/ff+verandah.jpg" height="400" width="282" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/patterns/pattern/aans-ward-dress" target="_blank">AANS WWI Outdoor uniform 1914-16</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The <i>Great War 1914-18 </i>series e-pattern size range goes from size 8 through to size 24. The patterns were drafted
using Edwardian drafting techniques and the pattern notes use early 20th
c sewing techniques, so when you construct your AANS uniform you will
be creating it in the style of 1914-18.<br />
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The pattern can be used by most WWI nursing troops, especially the British and New Zealand WWI nurses, as the Australian and NZ uniform was based on the Queen Alexandra’s Imperial Military Nursing Service (QAIMNS). WWI nursing troops from other nations can also use this pattern as most nursing uniforms were very similar in style during these years, especially the Ward Dress.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BxECCv7XiMs/UnxpGSbMJRI/AAAAAAAAFAo/iFbgE_iiYQU/s1600/Leaving+Australia.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BxECCv7XiMs/UnxpGSbMJRI/AAAAAAAAFAo/iFbgE_iiYQU/s1600/Leaving+Australia.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Outdoor dress. Nurses prior to boarding HMAT Orsova</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Through my research I discovered that the Sisters set off in 1915 to Egypt after a long fight with the Army men who didn't think women had a place in war. The women nurses knew otherwise, their Sisters blazed a trail for them in the Crimean and Boer Wars of the 19th c. The Sisters were classed as officers and therefore made their own uniform, or had a seamstress make it for them. This meant that there was a great deal of variety amongst their uniforms, they all have an owner's individual touch.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UArOteSj2D8/Unxpp-dW3VI/AAAAAAAAFAw/jG-5unVAU1Y/s1600/Outdoor+with+bonnet.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UArOteSj2D8/Unxpp-dW3VI/AAAAAAAAFAw/jG-5unVAU1Y/s320/Outdoor+with+bonnet.jpg" height="320" width="226" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The unpopular bonnet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Their 1914 - 16 'Walking Out' or 'Outdoor' uniform was based on late Edwardian styling. A shirtwaist blouse, tucked into a 5 gored woolen skirt with a self fabric belt. White collar and cuffs, a scarlet cashmere tippet (shoulder cape) and 19th c. styled bonnets that weren't popular with the young Sisters. They wore grey gloves, black stockings and laced up or buttoned up heeled boots or shoes. Under their uniform were the underpinings of the day, chemise, late Edwardian long line corset, a corset cover, petticoat. In Egypt the bonnets were quickly 'lost' and panama hats were used instead, when hung with a dust & fly veil, they were far more sensible in the bright heat of Cairo and Alexandria.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--DPpvLCTUak/Unx5zv-E6CI/AAAAAAAAFBk/rNwqBMdUQas/s1600/BWsitting+w+dogs+verandah.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--DPpvLCTUak/Unx5zv-E6CI/AAAAAAAAFBk/rNwqBMdUQas/s320/BWsitting+w+dogs+verandah.jpg" height="320" width="188" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/patterns/pattern/aans-ward-dress" target="_blank">AANS WWI Ward dress </a>with Astro and Lulu</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Their 1914 - 18 'Ward Dress' was exactly the same style as their 'Walking Out' dress, except it was joined at the waist by the waist belt and made of zephyr cotton. It was worn with a white zephyr cotton apron, linen cuffs and collar and a silk organza veil. The same tippet was worn and the same underpinings above. The uniform length rose from ankle to calf length as styles changed during the war and the underpinings would have moved with the times as well.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gZ1kstxdNS4/UnxqDEz21bI/AAAAAAAAFA4/anEXxRDquJE/s1600/Camels.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gZ1kstxdNS4/UnxqDEz21bI/AAAAAAAAFA4/anEXxRDquJE/s1600/Camels.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Riding camels in the desert</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The heat of Egypt made the grey serge wool less than comfortable to bear and the Australian nurses started to wear their 'Ward Dress' as their 'Outdoor Dress' as it was cooler. They might replace the cashmere tippet for the scarlet silk Mess dress tippet.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DGMgK2-0AB0/Unx7-dfOMnI/AAAAAAAAFB4/lrRbAANAZO4/s1600/Mrs+Cook.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DGMgK2-0AB0/Unx7-dfOMnI/AAAAAAAAFB4/lrRbAANAZO4/s320/Mrs+Cook.jpg" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me and Mrs Chook looking a tad casual with a loose collar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
To create an historically accurate reproduction e-pattern I have to
understand the time, place and context of the dress patterns I create. I
researched extensively into AANS WWI uniforms as it was a period I
didn't know much about and I am now something of an expert, lol!<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rgM96dLePsA/UnyIgIEY3JI/AAAAAAAAFCU/8DQp4GGTFlc/s1600/mid+ward+verandah.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rgM96dLePsA/UnyIgIEY3JI/AAAAAAAAFCU/8DQp4GGTFlc/s320/mid+ward+verandah.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/patterns/pattern/aans-ward-dress" target="_blank">AANS WWI Ward dress</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I travelled to the Australian War Memorial in Canberra to view the
uniforms that they had available and I wrote about that in an <a href="http://thetailorsapprentice.blogspot.com.au/2013/04/an-australian-wwi-nurses-uniform-visit.html" target="_blank">earlier post</a>. When I visited, the only example of the early 1914 - 16
"Walking Out' dress was in a display cabinet unfortunately. I did get a
great look at the 1916 - 19 'Walking Out' Norfolk jacket and Dickey. <br />
<br />
I am
extremely grateful to the WWI conservators at the Australian War
Memorial (read my earlier post), Guy Gormely of 5th AIF, USA GWH,
Christie Stonehouse who initiated the project and
the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/groups/231152183701926/" target="_blank">WWI Australian Nurses</a>
Facebook group who all provided invaluable research in the form of
photos, documents and links to many online and off line sources. Many of
the online sources found through the interwebs and online State and
National Library collections are pinned to my <a href="http://www.pinterest.com/StitchUpHistory/20th-century-wwi-nurses-aans-women-workers-uniform/" target="_blank">Pinterest</a> board. <br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-j9G21pqfSjo/Unx89PbFwJI/AAAAAAAAFCE/Ta_ToVEni2s/s1600/med+dogs+garden.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-j9G21pqfSjo/Unx89PbFwJI/AAAAAAAAFCE/Ta_ToVEni2s/s320/med+dogs+garden.jpg" height="320" width="213" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/patterns/pattern/aans-ward-dress" target="_blank">AANS 1914-16 Outdoor dress</a> with Astro and Lulu</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The AANS Ward Dress and Outdoor dress 1914-16, with all the accessories of scarlet tippet, apron, separate collars and cuffs, veil and sleeve protectors will cost of $A19.95 for the e-pattern. $A55.95 for the <i>Great War 1914-18 series</i>. As noted above, this pattern can be used by most WWI nurse troops as the nursing uniforms around the world were very similar and the New Zealand and AANS uniform was based on the Queen Alexandra’s Imperial Military Nursing Service (QAIMNS).<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b></b><br />
<b><a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/patterns/pattern/aans-ward-dress" target="_blank">Purchase your pattern</a> ...</b>
<b></b><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 15px; text-align: center;">
<i><b>*********************************************************************************************** </b></i><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJ6CkJHEWSs/UWUZt8hGO1I/AAAAAAAAEl4/_nraLiXO-QA/s1600/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-1.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJ6CkJHEWSs/UWUZt8hGO1I/AAAAAAAAEl4/_nraLiXO-QA/s320/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-1.png" height="320" width="152" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: purple;"><i><b><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="background-color: white;"><b>I'm The Tailor's Apprentice, maker of <a href="http://thetailorsapprentice.createsend1.com/t/j-l-thdlxl-l-g/" style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">The Miss Page 1940s reproduction patterns</a>,
gowns developed from pattern pieces found amongst the remnants of Miss
Violet Florence Page’s life and work. Affordable, elegant, and unique
garments from the 1940s war years.</b></span> </span></b></b></i></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: purple;"><i><b><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">All my patterns are available
on <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/StitchingUpHistory" target="_blank">Etsy</a> and my <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php" target="_blank">website</a>
where you'll find out more about me as well. This year I am publishing
an 1820s gown wardrobe pattern and an Australian Army Nurses Services
WWI uniform pattern.</span></b></b></i></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: magenta;"><b><br /></b></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><b><span style="color: purple;"><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">If
you'd liked to be included on my mailing list for events, pattern
release dates and interesting snippets about vintage and historic
sewing, please subscribe to my Newsletter on The Tailor's Apprentice <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/about_me/subscribe" target="_blank">website</a>.</span></b></span></b></i></span></div>
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 15px; text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: magenta;"><b><br /></b></span></span></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05285873564550568786noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3928487848992149688.post-70633709695746687022013-11-01T11:43:00.000+11:002013-11-01T11:43:20.304+11:00Preserving your vintage and historical patterns<div style="margin-bottom: 15px;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BJ35P9-YlLA/UnL3rgredhI/AAAAAAAAE_c/zifmzpH6U1I/s1600/IMG_3469.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BJ35P9-YlLA/UnL3rgredhI/AAAAAAAAE_c/zifmzpH6U1I/s200/IMG_3469.jpg" width="150" /></a></div>
Do you have a draw or shelf of fragile vintage patterns that your not using because their fragility worries you?</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 15px;">
Then do what I do, I copy all my vintage pattern pieces, complete with
all the notches, dots, grain lines and other markings onto paper and
this gives me a 'master' copy that I can use again and again.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 15px;">
I also photocopy the pattern cover, any pattern notes and any other pattern information and history on the pattern.</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 15px;">
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tRsJjtKKcmY/UnL3otvNm_I/AAAAAAAAE_Y/a5qAP7LnnGE/s1600/IMG_3468.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tRsJjtKKcmY/UnL3otvNm_I/AAAAAAAAE_Y/a5qAP7LnnGE/s200/IMG_3468.JPG" width="200" /></a></div>
Once completed, I bundle the copy pieces into a zip-lock bag and store
separately to my vintage pattern. This preserves the original pattern
and also ensures that I can make any notations and pattern tweeks to the
pattern on my personal copy.<br />
<br />
I then store the original in archive boxes, organised by era and size and pattern maker so they are easy to find.<br />
<br />
Can you tell I was a librarian in another life, LOL! </div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 15px; text-align: center;">
----000---</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 15px;">
Have you signed up for my <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/about_me/subscribe" target="_blank">Newsletter</a>? This is where I share vintage and historical sewing tips and ideas, information about my latest patterns, workshops and classes. Come and Stitch Up History with me :)</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 15px; text-align: center;">
<i><b>*********************************************************************************************** </b></i><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJ6CkJHEWSs/UWUZt8hGO1I/AAAAAAAAEl4/_nraLiXO-QA/s1600/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-1.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJ6CkJHEWSs/UWUZt8hGO1I/AAAAAAAAEl4/_nraLiXO-QA/s320/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-1.png" width="152" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: purple;"><i><b><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="background-color: white;"><b>I'm The Tailor's Apprentice, maker of <a href="http://thetailorsapprentice.createsend1.com/t/j-l-thdlxl-l-g/" style="font-weight: bold; text-decoration: none;">The Miss Page 1940s reproduction patterns</a>,
gowns developed from pattern pieces found amongst the remnants of Miss
Violet Florence Page’s life and work. Affordable, elegant, and unique
garments from the 1940s war years.</b></span> </span></b></b></i></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: purple;"><i><b><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">All my patterns are available
on <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/StitchingUpHistory" target="_blank">Etsy</a> and my <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php" target="_blank">website</a> where you'll find out more about me as well. This year I am publishing an 1820s gown wardrobe pattern and an Australian Army Nurses Services WWI uniform pattern.</span></b></b></i></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><br /></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: magenta;"><b><br /></b></span></span></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i><b><span style="color: purple;"><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">If
you'd liked to be included on my mailing list for events, pattern
release dates and interesting snippets about vintage and historic
sewing, please subscribe to my Newsletter on The Tailor's Apprentice <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/about_me/subscribe" target="_blank">website</a>.</span></b></span></b></i></span></div>
</div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 15px; text-align: left;">
<span style="background-color: white;"><span style="color: magenta;"><b><br /></b></span></span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05285873564550568786noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3928487848992149688.post-54891510440153734652013-09-30T13:21:00.000+10:002013-09-30T19:23:35.696+10:00Regency Frolics - Our 1813 inaugral ball at The Paragon Cafe in Katoomba<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lfaf7X1gZJ8/UkjGN8ZrjXI/AAAAAAAAE64/reJDaEiph_Q/s1600/IMG_2963.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lfaf7X1gZJ8/UkjGN8ZrjXI/AAAAAAAAE64/reJDaEiph_Q/s200/IMG_2963.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Resting from the dancing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">"A splendid ball was also given; where the CONSUL himself tripped it on the light fantastic toe." <em>The Times</em>, November 1803.</span><br />
<br />
On Saturday 28th September, I held The Tailor's Apprentice's first <i>Regency Frolic</i>! We celebrated the <i>1813 crossing of the Blue Mountains by Europeans </i>with a ball in one of the Blue Mountains most iconic venues, <i>The Paragon Cafe</i>.<br />
<br />
It was a glittering affair in the elegantly appointed Paragon Cafe, the cafe was built in 1916 in the Art Noveau style popular in the period and creates the perfect ambiance for a celebration. Attendees reported that they felt they were at a private ball in a country estate, the feeling of intimacy and style was appreciated.<br />
<br />
We started with dancing instruction from our <i>Dancing Master, Caroline Barrel,</i> this gave those who had not danced in the style of the period confidence for the ball. Our music was played skillfully by <i>Mr Wentworth's Fancy</i>, a group of local musicians who kept out feet moving joyfully all evening!<br />
<br />
Then the commencement of the ball proper with a grand march, then we moved into the dances of the period. We adjoined for an elegant dinner in the style of the period, all receipes prepared by the <i>Two Hat Chef of The Paragon Cafe </i>from recipes of the Regency period. This was followed by a wonderful performance by our <i>soprano Gabriel Bieniek</i>. Then more dancing till we had to end. Those preferred the card room to the ballroom were accommodated with games of the period, <i>Loo, Over and Unders, Whist and Hazard.</i><br />
<br />
As my photos below show, everyone enjoyed themselves and like all good times, there wasn't time enough to enjoy it all and we had to leave too soon! <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aHjU0q5OMs4/UkjlACDPneI/AAAAAAAAE7I/qy2rO-otYqA/s1600/IMG_2942.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-aHjU0q5OMs4/UkjlACDPneI/AAAAAAAAE7I/qy2rO-otYqA/s320/IMG_2942.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Learning the steps from the Dance Master</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wBAz6d1V0yI/UkjlMaWT4UI/AAAAAAAAE7Q/E9jBXqqHnVQ/s1600/IMG_2946.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wBAz6d1V0yI/UkjlMaWT4UI/AAAAAAAAE7Q/E9jBXqqHnVQ/s320/IMG_2946.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Concentrating on what is being taught</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-54jpj0jmMWA/UkjlVOk1yKI/AAAAAAAAE7Y/KkZWrTgw4sw/s1600/IMG_2952.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-54jpj0jmMWA/UkjlVOk1yKI/AAAAAAAAE7Y/KkZWrTgw4sw/s320/IMG_2952.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Striking a grand pose</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2xSXPhGoSEc/Ukjl7ti40JI/AAAAAAAAE7k/TZuQwXEcBUc/s1600/IMG_2957.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2xSXPhGoSEc/Ukjl7ti40JI/AAAAAAAAE7k/TZuQwXEcBUc/s320/IMG_2957.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying a rest</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JnBowLQt33o/UkjmMQfRN4I/AAAAAAAAE7s/1SFwRGmec7s/s1600/IMG_2961.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JnBowLQt33o/UkjmMQfRN4I/AAAAAAAAE7s/1SFwRGmec7s/s320/IMG_2961.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chatting in the salon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TcsiG1xpD1U/UkjmSC2AjYI/AAAAAAAAE70/MOo7uHdSnCc/s1600/IMG_2962.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TcsiG1xpD1U/UkjmSC2AjYI/AAAAAAAAE70/MOo7uHdSnCc/s320/IMG_2962.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chatting about their day's shoot</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O8UmUt49vdU/Ukjmza6n4wI/AAAAAAAAE8A/b3gyo96HtKE/s1600/IMG_2964.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-O8UmUt49vdU/Ukjmza6n4wI/AAAAAAAAE8A/b3gyo96HtKE/s320/IMG_2964.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Resting from the dance</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-15KuOyr2qRA/UkjnNGswMfI/AAAAAAAAE8Q/AiXk919vgaM/s1600/IMG_3017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-15KuOyr2qRA/UkjnNGswMfI/AAAAAAAAE8Q/AiXk919vgaM/s320/IMG_3017.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Learning the rules of Hazard</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xwmke40WPrQ/UkjnF1-rfvI/AAAAAAAAE8I/DsueJrNfUUU/s1600/IMG_3019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xwmke40WPrQ/UkjnF1-rfvI/AAAAAAAAE8I/DsueJrNfUUU/s320/IMG_3019.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Awaiting their next dance</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QQeAMkHaauo/UkjnuYaYQ2I/AAAAAAAAE8Y/AOAhhF876rU/s1600/IMG_3051.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QQeAMkHaauo/UkjnuYaYQ2I/AAAAAAAAE8Y/AOAhhF876rU/s320/IMG_3051.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'... and men were few'</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n6925Y9MIg8/Ukjn-PdzMbI/AAAAAAAAE8g/acIPgqBDZng/s1600/IMG_3090.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n6925Y9MIg8/Ukjn-PdzMbI/AAAAAAAAE8g/acIPgqBDZng/s320/IMG_3090.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our band, Mr Wentworth's Fancy</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-akHydY73_bw/UkjoGyGh5QI/AAAAAAAAE8o/oX1CqMgDkC0/s1600/IMG_3128.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-akHydY73_bw/UkjoGyGh5QI/AAAAAAAAE8o/oX1CqMgDkC0/s320/IMG_3128.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying their meal</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NvVZv0AxXpM/UkjolkS_EJI/AAAAAAAAE84/bOEdkwF9H44/s1600/IMG_3146.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NvVZv0AxXpM/UkjolkS_EJI/AAAAAAAAE84/bOEdkwF9H44/s320/IMG_3146.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My partner and I</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6w7S-DSVyM4/UkjobmpIb2I/AAAAAAAAE8w/InbH6vgr0t8/s1600/IMG_3169.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6w7S-DSVyM4/UkjobmpIb2I/AAAAAAAAE8w/InbH6vgr0t8/s320/IMG_3169.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our songbird, Gabrielle</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TfEr5OhNem8/UkjpGJs65SI/AAAAAAAAE9A/CJ213eIuZnU/s1600/IMG_3170.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TfEr5OhNem8/UkjpGJs65SI/AAAAAAAAE9A/CJ213eIuZnU/s320/IMG_3170.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Regency deserts</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cAE5R_FtPM8/UkjpJYitDuI/AAAAAAAAE9I/bT_4z7k_gYo/s1600/IMG_3172.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cAE5R_FtPM8/UkjpJYitDuI/AAAAAAAAE9I/bT_4z7k_gYo/s320/IMG_3172.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Damn, their goes the stables!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qdZT-JLR3fY/UkjpnrfnY4I/AAAAAAAAE9Q/Uw7OF1yuKOE/s1600/IMG_3175.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qdZT-JLR3fY/UkjpnrfnY4I/AAAAAAAAE9Q/Uw7OF1yuKOE/s320/IMG_3175.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Oh and now the estate!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8GgVyFVVyo8/UkjptTjj5lI/AAAAAAAAE9Y/pbhyyGSqkrA/s1600/IMG_3206.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8GgVyFVVyo8/UkjptTjj5lI/AAAAAAAAE9Y/pbhyyGSqkrA/s320/IMG_3206.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Still have energy for dancing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-C7ZrhHhHLlQ/UkjpvhgOj4I/AAAAAAAAE9g/n7xFJfWRVlM/s1600/IMG_3209.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-C7ZrhHhHLlQ/UkjpvhgOj4I/AAAAAAAAE9g/n7xFJfWRVlM/s320/IMG_3209.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One last swing around their partners!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
I hope to have the professional photographer's photos this week and I will post them in another blog post. On the Sunday we held a Regency picnic at <i>Wentworth Falls Lake</i> which I shall tell you about in another post :)<br />
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If you'd liked to be included on my mailing list for events, please subscribe to my Newsletter on The Tailor's Apprentice <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/about_me/subscribe" target="_blank">website</a>.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJ6CkJHEWSs/UWUZt8hGO1I/AAAAAAAAEl4/_nraLiXO-QA/s1600/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-1.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJ6CkJHEWSs/UWUZt8hGO1I/AAAAAAAAEl4/_nraLiXO-QA/s320/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-1.png" width="152" /></a></div>
<i><b><span style="color: purple;"><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">I'm The Tailor's Apprentice and I have created <i>The Miss Page Vintage Pattern Collection</i>.
1940s WWII dress making patterns for the 21st century woman. Patterns
created by me from my extant 1940s gowns. All my patterns are available
on <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/StitchingUpHistory" target="_blank">Etsy</a> and my <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php" target="_blank">website</a> where you'll find out more about me as well. This year I am publishing an 1820s gown wardrobe pattern.</span></b></span></b></i><br />
<br />
<i><b><span style="color: purple;"><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">If you'd liked to be included on my mailing list for events, pattern release dates and interesting snippets about vintage and historic sewing, please subscribe to my Newsletter on The Tailor's Apprentice <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/about_me/subscribe" target="_blank">website</a>. </span></b></span> </b></i><br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05285873564550568786noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3928487848992149688.post-65392277593322924692013-08-29T20:22:00.002+10:002013-08-29T20:22:31.053+10:00Croisures a la victime - short hair in the Directoire period<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hMLJfjrOJF0/Uh8BOX3Mj2I/AAAAAAAAE5Q/SWBegHbdKIg/s1600/589px-Les_cheveux_a_laTitusDirectoire.gif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hMLJfjrOJF0/Uh8BOX3Mj2I/AAAAAAAAE5Q/SWBegHbdKIg/s200/589px-Les_cheveux_a_laTitusDirectoire.gif" width="196" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fashion plate from Wikipedia Commons</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Death, destruction, fear, excitement, opportunities, change. The world is in turmoil for all and extremely dangerous for aristocrats. This is France in the late 18th century. <a href="http://www.fordham.edu/halsall/mod/robespierre-terror.html" target="_blank">Robspierre</a>'s reign of terror is in full swing, the rules and laws change, then change again. The monarchy is gone, the French Revolution changes the world.<br />
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How to survive, how to cope? The answer? Be prepared for Madam Guillotine and party like its 1794!<br />
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The Reign of Terror and the Directoire period in France is a time of fast and furious change in everything from who is important, who is dangerous to know, how you wear your clothes, what's important to survive, the fashion you wear, the music you listen to, the laws that rule your life, the way you live from day to day, all is in flux! <br />
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</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4cKEeZP0iSY/Uh8SOxOCqBI/AAAAAAAAE5s/rh-6sGj01_o/s1600/Guerin_Un+fille+en+buste.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4cKEeZP0iSY/Uh8SOxOCqBI/AAAAAAAAE5s/rh-6sGj01_o/s200/Guerin_Un+fille+en+buste.jpg" width="170" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://cartelen.louvre.fr/cartelen/visite?srv=car_not_frame&idNotice=18876" target="_blank">Jeune fille en busteVers 1794</a>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The silks and satins of the years before are replaced by simple but
expensive cottons. Archeological discoveries of Roman and Greek statues
referring to democracy and republicanism are the rage and influencing fashion, architecture and furniture. To look like a Roman senator or a Grecian goddess is the height of fashion.<br />
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Your wig is old hat, but what do you do with the short hair under it? Turn it into a fashion statement my dear and wear your hair 'a la Titus', i.e. like a Roman, fashionable for both men and woman.<br />
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<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pVtqZO3FyNM/Uh8D6sDW-EI/AAAAAAAAE5g/Ety1jqFAoB8/s1600/arton64-81268.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pVtqZO3FyNM/Uh8D6sDW-EI/AAAAAAAAE5g/Ety1jqFAoB8/s1600/arton64-81268.jpg" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fashion plate from Wikipedia Commons</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
With the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reign_of_Terror" target="_blank">Reign of Terror </a>raging around them, the pro-Monarchy needed a way to 'cock a snoot' at the pro-Republicans,<br />
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Cut your hair 'a la victime', i.e. hair roughly hacked off at the back of the victim's head leaving the front long, prepared for <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Use_of_the_Guillotine_in_Paris" target="_blank">Madam Guillotine</a>. Thus you turn the affront into a fashion statement, start a fashion trend that becomes the <a href="http://www.harkavagrant.com/index.php?id=229" target="_blank"><i>Incroyables et Merveilleuses</i></a>, then you all party hard at '<a href="http://www.examiner.com/article/guillotine-chic-la-victime-fashion" target="_blank">a la victime</a>' balls!<br />
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The incroyable fashion for outrageously short hair and crazy fashion then travelled to the rising haute-Bourgeois. They claimed the styles previously only affected by the aristos, much to the disgust of these <a href="http://www.harkavagrant.com/index.php?id=229" target="_blank">aristos</a>! The bougeois stealing their thunder! How very dare they!<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XO3ncKuZZdo/Uh8X0pCTOqI/AAAAAAAAE6U/uav8N56GAjs/s1600/coiffure-titus.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XO3ncKuZZdo/Uh8X0pCTOqI/AAAAAAAAE6U/uav8N56GAjs/s200/coiffure-titus.jpg" width="148" /></a></div>
I have fallen under the spell of the Incroyables and Merveilleuses, they leave the tame Regency for dead, they make the rule breakers of Britain look like naughty children! Outrageous in so many things, but its the short hair and the short skirts that call to me!<br />
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I want to play with them, if only for a little while. So I have had my
hair styled 'a la Titus' by my fabulous hairdresser and am about to
create some Mervilleuse gowns for my re-enacting wardrobe. Here's what the clever hair cutter at Kropt Hair created for me today, I am chuffed! Perfect for our Regency Ball on the 28th September, 2013, you can book for it here on <a href="https://regencyball2013.eventbrite.com.au/" target="_blank">Eventbrite</a>.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Hu97cLwRbi4/Uh8XjGn__0I/AAAAAAAAE6M/Cx-BiJVRlsw/s1600/IMG_2802.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Hu97cLwRbi4/Uh8XjGn__0I/AAAAAAAAE6M/Cx-BiJVRlsw/s320/IMG_2802.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BnRdLX69qMs/Uh8XUDhjHpI/AAAAAAAAE58/8BWTEk5B8g0/s1600/IMG_2803.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BnRdLX69qMs/Uh8XUDhjHpI/AAAAAAAAE58/8BWTEk5B8g0/s320/IMG_2803.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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Viva la France!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJ6CkJHEWSs/UWUZt8hGO1I/AAAAAAAAEl4/_nraLiXO-QA/s1600/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-1.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJ6CkJHEWSs/UWUZt8hGO1I/AAAAAAAAEl4/_nraLiXO-QA/s320/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-1.png" width="152" /></a></div>
<i><b><span style="color: purple;"><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">I'm The Tailor's Apprentice and I have created <i>The Miss Page Vintage Pattern Collection</i>.
1940s WWII dress making patterns for the 21st century woman. Patterns
created by me from my extant 1940s gowns. All my patterns are available
on <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/StitchingUpHistory" target="_blank">Etsy</a> and my <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php" target="_blank">website</a> where you'll find out more about me as well. This year I am publishing an 1820s gown wardrobe pattern.</span></b></span> </b></i><br />
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05285873564550568786noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3928487848992149688.post-63299602915057812112013-07-15T14:21:00.002+10:002013-07-15T14:21:49.546+10:00The Great Gatsby in Fashion, a new book by Debbie Sessions of Vintage Dancer<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B4ap7izsqa4/Ud-Q86aHitI/AAAAAAAAE2g/mIpFRHEoj7U/s1600/GGiF-blouses-89x150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-B4ap7izsqa4/Ud-Q86aHitI/AAAAAAAAE2g/mIpFRHEoj7U/s1600/GGiF-blouses-89x150.jpg" /></a>Today I'm bringing you a giveaway, <i>The Great Gatsby in Fashion, written by F
Scott Fitzgerald in 1925, with fashion history annotation by Debbie
Sessions</i>, creator of <a href="http://www.vintagedancer.com/1920s" target="_blank">Vintagedancer.com.</a><b> </b><br />
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<b></b>Debbie provides the full text of The Great Gatsby novel along with 33 additional 1920′s fashion history insights throughout the book. A great way to ensure that you understand the fashion statements made throughout the original novel.<br />
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Debbie and I, along with Bud and Ern Westmore of GlamourDaze, collaborated on <a href="http://www.1940s-fashion.com/?ap_id=vintagedancer" target="_blank">The 1940s Style Guide</a>, book by Debbie, <a href="http://www.1940s-fashion.com/pattern/" target="_blank">Rose Marie a 1940s retro dress pattern</a> by me, a pattern that can take you to work, a picnic, a ball or your wedding day and <a href="http://www.1940s-fashion.com/1940s-makeup-book/" target="_blank">make-up tips from Glamour Daze</a> ...<br />
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... so I know how great she is at 'capturing' an era and making it available to the 21st century woman.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zVjdXdfwqw4/UeN3jpmJmZI/AAAAAAAAE3Q/KSjWq0WeupQ/s1600/great-agtsby-book-spread-jpg-150x93.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zVjdXdfwqw4/UeN3jpmJmZI/AAAAAAAAE3Q/KSjWq0WeupQ/s1600/great-agtsby-book-spread-jpg-150x93.jpg" /></a></div>
Her new '20s book is no exception and it is linked directly with the book text of The Great Gatsby! What a brilliant and creative idea. As Debbie says:<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>“The love affair with one of the greatest American novels ever
written has just as much to do with the dazzling fashions of the 1920’s
as it does with great story telling. F. Scott Fitzgerald, a dapper
dresser, and his wife, Zelda, a notorious flapper, experienced the high
life of fashion and culture in the twenties. It was only
natural for Fitzgerald to include detailed descriptions of the clothing
each character wore. It is in his observations of their dress that he
unveils the characters’ motivations and morals that play a critical part
in the novel. Fitzgerald’s audience in 1925 would have understood what
color a “gas blue” dress was and would have known the sound of “clicking
pottery bracelets.” Today’s readers miss the cultural context of those
fashions, until now.</i></span><br />
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<b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">How can you win a free copy of The Great Gatsby in Fashion?</span></b> <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lPJ9rxtBIVk/UeN3sh-obVI/AAAAAAAAE3Y/VKgmtLnLOr8/s1600/GGiF-Ulster-Coat-72x150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lPJ9rxtBIVk/UeN3sh-obVI/AAAAAAAAE3Y/VKgmtLnLOr8/s1600/GGiF-Ulster-Coat-72x150.jpg" /></a></div>
Debbie has gracefully offered me one free copy of her epublication to my blog followers and you have a chance of winning it!<br />
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Debbie brings <i>The Great Gatsby’s </i>Jazz Age alive with illustrations and historical annotations of the clothing described in the novel. <b>Sixty images of 1920’s</b>
dresses, suits, shoes, hats, hairstyles and the people who wore them
are included alongside descriptions of the clothing worn in the summer
of 1922, the year in which <i>The Great Gatsby</i> is set. Additional
cultural insights of the life and times of the roaring twenties are
blended into the annotations creating an insightful view of the 20’s
wealthier class.”For a limited time you can purchase it for US .99c!<br />
<br />
<b>You can win a FREE copy of the book if you :</b><br />
<ol>
<li><i>T</i><i>ell me<b> </b>briefly which film represents the true' 20s fashion best, either the Redford/Farrow or the DiCaprio/Mulligan . </i></li>
<li><i>Share this blog post on your Twitter and/or FB accounts to spread the word of the giveaway and let me know you have done so in your comments. </i></li>
</ol>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7MPsqN6knQg/UeN3zUdhBeI/AAAAAAAAE3g/ll1HvXce15Q/s1600/Great-Gtabsy-in-Fashion-book-pages-jpg-300w-87x150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7MPsqN6knQg/UeN3zUdhBeI/AAAAAAAAE3g/ll1HvXce15Q/s1600/Great-Gtabsy-in-Fashion-book-pages-jpg-300w-87x150.jpg" /></a></div>
<b>Put your answer in the comments section below by 4th August, 2013 Australian Eastern Standard Time.</b><br />
<br />
<b>Once done, you will go into the draw for a chance to win a FREE copy of <i>The Great Gatsby in Fashion, written by F
Scott Fitzgerald in 1925, with fashion history annotation by Debbie
Sessions</i>! Best of luck to you all!</b><br />
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<i><b>*********************************************************************************************** </b></i><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJ6CkJHEWSs/UWUZt8hGO1I/AAAAAAAAEl4/_nraLiXO-QA/s1600/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-1.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJ6CkJHEWSs/UWUZt8hGO1I/AAAAAAAAEl4/_nraLiXO-QA/s320/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-1.png" width="152" /></a></div>
<i><b><span style="color: purple;"><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">I'm The Tailor's Apprentice and I have created <i>The Miss Page Vintage Pattern Collection</i>.
1940s WWII dress making patterns for the 21st century woman. Patterns
created by me from my extant 1940s gowns. All my patterns are available
on <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/StitchingUpHistory" target="_blank">Etsy</a> and my <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php" target="_blank">website</a> where you'll find out more about me as well. This year I am publishing an 1820s gown wardrobe pattern.</span></b></span> </b></i><br />
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<b></b>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05285873564550568786noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3928487848992149688.post-40063667521247935222013-07-03T17:55:00.000+10:002013-07-03T17:55:12.278+10:00Making a paper tape dress form <table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1ImLmcHKK88/UdO6rssd_fI/AAAAAAAAE0I/zrFTNMeubz4/s1600/IMG_2333.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1ImLmcHKK88/UdO6rssd_fI/AAAAAAAAE0I/zrFTNMeubz4/s320/IMG_2333.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mine is on the far right, there's much more of me, lol!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
I've been rather quiet on the blog of late as I'm renovating our garden cottage into a space for guests to enjoy a short break from the city. A place to rest, revive and enjoy nature at its best. I am including a <i>Stitch Up History short break package</i>: a weekend, or weekdays, one-on-one master class where you make a period or vintage outfit and enjoy the delights of one of the most well known national parks in Australia, the Blue Mountains National Park, part of the Greater Blue Mountains World Heritage Area; listed for its remarkable geographic, botanic and cultural values, including protecting sites of Aboriginal cultural significance. Come and 'Like' <a href="https://www.facebook.com/AzureHillsCottage" target="_blank">Azure Hills Cottage</a> on FB and be the first to know when <i>Stitch Up History short breaks</i> are advertised.</blockquote>
</blockquote>
<span style="color: blue;">But back to making a paper tape dress form! ...</span><br />
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In-between scrubbing walls clean, painting them and carting furniture in the non stop pouring rain, I had a break! Three friends joined forces to create dress dummies out of paper tape using this <a href="http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/3633/paper-tape-dress-form" target="_blank">tutorial</a>. As fate would have it, it was also a beautifully sunny winters day, which was a delight after the constant rain!<br />
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I wore my Regency stays so I could have the right shape for making my gowns. Here are our pictures from the process.<br />
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<li>First put on a long or short sleeved stretch T that you will later cut through, so don't wear your favorite one! If, like me. you are aiming for a particular silhouette, put your chemise and stays on first. I left the chemise off as my T was rather thick. <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Gp7D7gQXNJI/UdO9VU6tlrI/AAAAAAAAE0c/bIFQTLLlGd8/s1600/IMG_2316.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Gp7D7gQXNJI/UdO9VU6tlrI/AAAAAAAAE0c/bIFQTLLlGd8/s320/IMG_2316.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<li>It helps if you cut all your paper tape pieces up first, or do it as you go along, either works. We used 1 and a bit rolls of tape for the three of us, this gave us two layers. <table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MuVDp6Twb1Y/UdO_EbpbqhI/AAAAAAAAE0o/EhhkyeXjN-o/s1600/IMG_2317.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MuVDp6Twb1Y/UdO_EbpbqhI/AAAAAAAAE0o/EhhkyeXjN-o/s320/IMG_2317.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sam ably demonstrating the paper tape</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-l3fVZpRD8oI/UdO_WwLK0wI/AAAAAAAAE0w/x9UELLBMxt4/s1600/IMG_2318.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-l3fVZpRD8oI/UdO_WwLK0wI/AAAAAAAAE0w/x9UELLBMxt4/s320/IMG_2318.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Refreshment for all but me as going to the loo would be a tad awkward</td></tr>
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<ul>
<li>Then start placing the pieces onto the victim ... <i>um I mean model :)<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cdrVE7fSNwA/UdPAWHNKyWI/AAAAAAAAE1M/gMwJfSUC8Yw/s1600/IMG_2319.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cdrVE7fSNwA/UdPAWHNKyWI/AAAAAAAAE1M/gMwJfSUC8Yw/s320/IMG_2319.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Create a chriss cross foundation to 'lift and seoarate' your 'girls' and put a band right at the base of yout top ribs right around your body</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mmeUYaefre0/UdPARqcxXkI/AAAAAAAAE1E/f0QchEFgwU0/s1600/IMG_2320.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mmeUYaefre0/UdPARqcxXkI/AAAAAAAAE1E/f0QchEFgwU0/s320/IMG_2320.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Do the same for the back</i></td></tr>
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<li>Dry each layer with a hair dryer before you commence the next, we used two layers of paper tape, you can use three, just don't use too many as you will widen your body shape.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3Mqz3A49Em8/UdPB9tHdb3I/AAAAAAAAE1c/zlE259fprU4/s1600/IMG_2326.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3Mqz3A49Em8/UdPB9tHdb3I/AAAAAAAAE1c/zlE259fprU4/s320/IMG_2326.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As you can see I've added arms into my body double, useful for ensuring you get the correct armsyce shape for your dresses. </td></tr>
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<li> But how do you then get out of it? First, ensure that the form is dry and hard, then simply cut up the back and along the top of the sleeves, using the zig-zag cut shown below.<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rWe6Q7X0JnQ/UdPFtGgGPwI/AAAAAAAAE1o/9K2KLwHh1VM/s1600/IMG_2329.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rWe6Q7X0JnQ/UdPFtGgGPwI/AAAAAAAAE1o/9K2KLwHh1VM/s320/IMG_2329.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cut up the back of the paper tape shell, try not to cut into your stays or underwear as you do this.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mFI-M_8owbU/UdPFxAPzH0I/AAAAAAAAE1w/_ExgKjZZmk4/s1600/IMG_2330.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mFI-M_8owbU/UdPFxAPzH0I/AAAAAAAAE1w/_ExgKjZZmk4/s320/IMG_2330.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Do the same on your sleeves to the neck then you can slide out of the form</td></tr>
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<li>Here is my double off the body.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-maYtjtf48Vg/UdPJQpCqLFI/AAAAAAAAE2E/CCuxmVgY_0o/s1600/IMG_2331.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-maYtjtf48Vg/UdPJQpCqLFI/AAAAAAAAE2E/CCuxmVgY_0o/s320/IMG_2331.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-k18L04IUl2E/UdPJR0boROI/AAAAAAAAE2M/N50hwwUuODw/s1600/IMG_2332.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-k18L04IUl2E/UdPJR0boROI/AAAAAAAAE2M/N50hwwUuODw/s320/IMG_2332.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<li>Turning your double into a dress dummy. This is the next stage and I haven't done it as yet. I'll document it as I do it and post it when completed.</li>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05285873564550568786noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3928487848992149688.post-54678478425701002192013-05-02T22:17:00.000+10:002013-05-02T23:08:17.798+10:00Forty years of fashion, the 1780 to 1820 fashion parade at Jane Austen Festival Australia<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rl5qiu_jiWE/UYIvWHsobSI/AAAAAAAAEtQ/eYrP619ohLY/s1600/JAFA2013_FashionParade_photoLawrie+Brown.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="214" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rl5qiu_jiWE/UYIvWHsobSI/AAAAAAAAEtQ/eYrP619ohLY/s320/JAFA2013_FashionParade_photoLawrie+Brown.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Photo courtesy Lawrie Brown</b></td></tr>
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My friend Samantha and I presented an historical fashion parade of 40 years of Regency fashionat this year's Jane Austen Festival Australia.<br />
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We asked attending costumers to show off their gowns, suits and uniforms from between the years 1780 to1820 to the audience on the Friday Dinner with Mr Darcy Variety Night.<br />
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The Fashion Parade was a great success and I am sharing it with you to enjoy as well. Sadly we have very few photos of the parade itself, apart from the one above, so where I can I will link to the makers blog for images or use my own and at the last resort, use images from art work of the period. <br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">Welcome, come with us on a time traveller’s journey, no TARDIS needed, only needle, thread and a passion for history. Travel through 40 years of fashion changes from 1780 to 1820. The models have created all these elegant gowns, suits and uniforms, with a few exceptions. Enjoy your trip through time … </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><a href="http://teainateacup.wordpress.com/2012/10/04/a-caraco-jacket/" target="_blank">Tea in a Teacup</a></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="color: purple;"><b>Kristy Venten <br />Maker: Kelly Lock <br />1780</b></span><br /><br />To start our parade we have a beautiful example of a late 18th century Georgian Caraco jacket and petticoats. Caraco jackets were styled in the same way as a gown of the period, but the skirts were trimmed shorter, usually about mid-thigh length. Other types of jackets were trimmed even shorter than this. The jacket was then worn over stays, panniers or a false rump (Couldn’t we all do with one of those?), and usually a matching petticoat. Note the formal structure of the gown created by stays, many petticoats and a bum pad. This style is formal and will soon disappear into the simplicity of the neo-classical style of the Regency and Directoire periods. Across Europe revolution is fomenting, soon to bubble over in the French Revolution and the world, and fashion, will never be the same again.<br /><br /><i>Pattern adapted from Janet Arnold’s Patterns of Fashion.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WZ4Akk3-ccs/UYI2gl0kVLI/AAAAAAAAEt4/Q108BL70VIc/s1600/IMG_1445.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WZ4Akk3-ccs/UYI2gl0kVLI/AAAAAAAAEt4/Q108BL70VIc/s320/IMG_1445.jpg" width="240" /></a><span style="color: purple;"><b>George Miller, <br />Maker, Sam Miller<br />1790s</b></span><br /><br />Mr Collins is wearing the dark black suit of a Regency clergyman. He is a man who is ever humble and does not like to put himself forward so his style is slightly out of fashion, but still elegant. The fabrics are chosen for wear and comfort; Mr Collins does like his comforts. <br /><br />George specially requested this garb as he'd always wanted to be Mr Collins.<br /><br /><i>Adapted very skilfully from a commercial pattern to create the period look.</i></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">John is on the left</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="color: purple;"><b>John Potter<br />Royal Navy Officer - Lieutenant 1787 - 1805</b></span><br /><br />John is wearing a Royal Navy officer's full dress uniform for the rank of Lieutenant in the style of the 1787 regulations. This style stayed in vogue until 1805. War and Revolution was very much a part of this period and men in uniforms were a part of all social events and added glitter and flair to a ball.<br /><br />Throughout this period, the cut and style of the officer’s uniforms resembled those of the army which was itself based on the civilian fashions of the time. Sailor's dress in contrast was very different to their shore based contemporaries, being designed for practical use at sea, and it marked them very distinctly as being seamen. <br /><br />The 1787 officer's uniform comprised a long blue coat (gold laced for more senior officers) with flat gilt buttons bearing an anchor device, single breasted white waistcoat and breeches, white shirt, stockings or hose and buckle shoes. The hat resembled the original tricorn shape but was by this period virtually an 'extended bicorn' which was worn 'athwart' (crossways) and was gold laced for senior officers. The head would normally be covered with a white powdered wig pulled back in a pigtail. <br /><br />For ordinary dress or 'undress', officers had a plainer, more practical coat. For Lieutenants this was blue throughout, including lapels which could be fastened across the body, plain cuffs and standing collar, all edged with white piping. The more decorative 'dress' sword would also be replaced with a more practical fighting sword - typically a curved sword called a 'hanger'.<br /><br /><i>Purchased from a military supplier.</i></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">J-L to the right</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><b><span style="color: purple;">Jenny-Lee Heylen<br />Maker, Lorna McKenzie<br />1800s</span></b><br />A Dust jacket for a Regency gentleman, Dust jackets evolved from the gentleman’s 18th century banyan, a comfortable lounge jacket for less formal occasions in one’s home. The war and revolution had a great influence on both women’s and men’s dress to a more simple and neo-classical. Dressing ‘down’ was the fashion, keeping your head more important than displaying your silks or satins. <br /><br />The English country gentleman ‘look’ took the fashion world by storm in the early Georgian/Regency period. Men adopted their ‘huntin’, shootin’, n’, fishin’ clothes for the town and the ball. Comfort became fashionable.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><i>Pattern was drafted from a late 18th century banyan and then adapted to portrait images of the period.</i></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">Steve is 2nd from right</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="color: purple;"><b>Stephen Gapps <br />Army Officer Infantry Captain (1805-1812) </b></span><br /><br />Stephen is wearing a British Army officer's uniform of the rank of <br />Captain. The rank is indicated by the presence of two epaulettes on the shoulders and the absence of any additional devices on the epaulettes. More junior officers (Lieutenants and Ensigns) typically wore one epaulette on the right shoulder <br /><br />The uniform reflects a style worn between 1805 and 1812 as fashions changed from long swallow tailcoats to shorter, more practical coatees, partly in response to the experience of the British Army in North America. The coatee can be worn in three different ways depending on the occasion either with lapels fully buttoned back for formal occasions such as balls or at court, partly buttoned back (a style fashionable with young officers) or fully buttons across to protect the 'facing colour' which was a common style on campaign. <br /><br />Officers wore a magenta sash around their waist (or over the shoulder for highland regiments) and generally wore a sword as further marks of their status. The bicorn was an item of headgear worn regularly before 1805 but it was falling out of fashion in the early 19th Century to be replaced by felt shakos. Senior officers however, continued to favour bicorns well beyond the introduction of the new headgear. Officer's dress, particularly on campaign, was not as closely regulated as that of the men..! Breeches and buckle shoes are worn for social occasions but would be replaced by trousers and boots or shoes in the field.<br /><br /><i>Purchased from a military supplier.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="color: purple;"><b>Meg Gardiner<br />1790s-1805</b></span><br /><br />Meg’s day robe introduces us to the revolutionary influence on women’s fashion, simplicity and elegance held sway. The influence of the Royal Court were gone, replaced by the influences of the classical world of Greece and Rome.<br /><br />Her fabric, beautiful mauve voile, lined in white cotton, shows us the influence of the East India Company and the exotic cottons that were now available. Her gown is based on the neo-classical early Regency and Directoire period style of simplicity and grace. <br /><br />Meg’s elegant robe features a simple high bodice tightened by draw-strings, a graceful draping skirt in soft fabric, a small train for day wear, the gown’s back bodice shows the characteristic ‘diamond’ back and the inset sleeves still used the late 18th century techniques to provide better arm movement. <br /><br /><i>Pattern used Sense & Sensibility Elegant Ladies Closet.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="color: purple;"><b>Sophie Kunst<br />1790s-1805</b></span><br /><br />Sophie is wearing a high waisted, bib-fronted day gown in beautiful blue and white stripes, with blue trim. Her gown is in cotton, wildly fashionable for any lady of style. It is simple and elegant. The column shape of a Grecian statue, with the graceful gathers at the back. <br /><br />Both the bib-front style and the long straight sleeves covering her hands provide a perfect example of this extremely popular style of the early Regency. <br /><br /><i>Pattern used Sense & Sensibility Elegant Ladies Closet.</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: purple;"><b>Jo Sandbach<br />1810-1813 </b></span><br /><br />A soft rose cambric robe, with full long sleeves, unornamented at the feet, piping is used to create a soft smocking effect on bodice and sleeves. The gown drapes elegantly with the mid-teens A-line look, but with a softness provided by the drape of the fabric. Its simplicity belies its elegance.</span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uvDc8LswrHA/UYJFmfG-57I/AAAAAAAAEvg/oTspwNGvJyU/s1600/JoanneVR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uvDc8LswrHA/UYJFmfG-57I/AAAAAAAAEvg/oTspwNGvJyU/s320/JoanneVR.jpg" width="162" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: purple;"><b>Joanne Van Raaphorst<br />1811</b></span><br /><br />A stunning recreation of Mrs Hurst's full dress (ball gown), as seen in the BBC’s Pride and Prejudice adaptation in the mid-90s.<br /><br />According to a biography writer, Jane revised her books Pride and Prejudice and Sense and Sensibility’s in 1811 and had them published in 1813.<br /><br />The original gown was made in green silk with green velvet contrast. Joanne’s is brown with burgundy velvet contrast. Other than that, Joanne has decorated the costume as close as possible to the original.<br /><br />Her jewellery and headpiece are also replicas of the film costume and were created by a good friend.<br /><br />We can see a further move away from the neo-classical style, formality of line is returning to high fashion.<br /><br /><i>Pattern Sense & Sensibility adaptation.</i></span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rhky_8cLaxI/UYJGox20XwI/AAAAAAAAEvs/gw2TWXFcC6I/s1600/IMG_1267.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rhky_8cLaxI/UYJGox20XwI/AAAAAAAAEvs/gw2TWXFcC6I/s320/IMG_1267.jpg" width="240" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: purple;"><b>Gabriel Bienek<br />1813<br />Maker, Lorna McKenzie, The Tailor's Apprentice</b></span> <br /><br />Gabriel wears a two toned green silk robe in full dress, with short puffed sleeves made in the Elizabethan manner. Her robe is ornamented at the feet by embroidery in silver and the sleeves are styled in the same embroidery. <br /><br />The fabric is a 7 metre silk saree. Shawl and saree gowns were extremely popular as gown fabric during the Regency, Directoire and Empire periods. As the East India Company’s goods trickled, then flooded back to England and Europe, these beautifully woven and embroidered objects were greatly desired and gown styles utilising these elements were much employed.<br /><br />Note how Gabriel’s gown sports the fashionable A-line silhouette of the mid-teens with its Gothic Elizabethan and Renaissance influences. This silhouette will become more stiff and exaggerated as the century progresses.<br /><br /><i>The pattern was drafted from period examples of 1813 gowns with especial reference to Jean Hunniset and Norah Waugh.</i></span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mvpLBwH_yM8/UYJRWN85lDI/AAAAAAAAEwE/7BdBXHi-HZY/s1600/1817AntoniaLai_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mvpLBwH_yM8/UYJRWN85lDI/AAAAAAAAEwE/7BdBXHi-HZY/s320/1817AntoniaLai_2.jpg" width="240" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: purple;"><b>Antonia Lai<br />1817<br />Antonia’s 1817 ensemble is based on the November 1, 1817 fashion plate from Ackermann’s Repositiory. </b></span><br /><br />Ackermann’s Repository was the fashion magazine of the Regency, along with others such as Bel Assemblee. These beautifully painted watercolour designs were the epitome of haute couture. If your mantua maker could emulate one of these ensembles you were lucky indeed.<br /><br />Antonia’s stylish walking ensemble includes an elegant Spencer jacket showing the military influence on women’s fashion, a white muff, hat and a white robe with ruffle edges and puffs. Simplicity has been replaced by decoration and trim. The gown’s bodice and the Spencer are extremely high waisted, sitting directly under the bust. <br /><br />We have reached the apogee of the short waisted gowns; soon, fashion will dictate a move downward towards the natural waist. Antonia’s skirt ruffles and puffs demonstrate further the move to the more elaborate gown ‘architecture’ of the late teens and early 20s, moving even farther from the neo-classical simplicity of the early Regency. <br /><br /><i>Pattern drafted by Antonia from period sources.</i></span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-b2oQoU2XNSc/UYJTZLC30yI/AAAAAAAAEwc/Et2uyi4qVug/s1600/IMG_6460.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-b2oQoU2XNSc/UYJTZLC30yI/AAAAAAAAEwc/Et2uyi4qVug/s320/IMG_6460.jpg" width="239" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="color: purple;"><b>Lorna McKenzie<br />1820s</b></span><br /> </span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;">Lorna’s gown is a reproduction of the sporting uniform worn by the women members of the Royal Society of British Bowman in 1823. These gowns worn by the women archers copied the men’s uniform colours, Lincoln green with a stylised yellow or pink and black trim of van dyke points representing arrowheads. The women archers also wore a chemisette in the Elizabethan ruff style and a </span></span></span><span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span class="st">Tam O'Shanter</span> type of bonnet. <br /><br />Archery, battledore/shuttlecock, walking and horse riding were the main sporting activities followed by ‘genteel’ women in this period. <br /><br />This final style in our trip through Regency fashion shows the trend to much wider skirts, the hem is supported with wool wadding to hold the shape of the A-line and a rope petticoat was often worn as a support.<br /><br />From this point on, the gown’s bodice will head down to the natural waist, skirts will widen into a bell shape, needing rope petticoats or horse hair crinolines to provide support. The neo classical era of the Regency, Directoire and Empire is at its end, moving forward to the Victorian period bell silhouette. </span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Pattern drafted by Lorna (aka The Tailor's Apprentice) with reference to the Royal Society of British Bowman portrait of 1822.</i> </span></span></span></span><br />
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<span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">This ends our trip through Regency fashions between 1780 and 1820, we hope you have enjoyed it; please show your appreciation by giving our models a big round of applause. The models are more than happy to chat with you over the weekend about the creation of their gowns, or you can chat further with Samantha or Lorna at anytime, we respond well if champagne and chocolates are provided … once again, please thank our models … <span style="font-family: Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;">and they did, long and loud!</span></span></span></span></span></span></span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJ6CkJHEWSs/UWUZt8hGO1I/AAAAAAAAEl4/_nraLiXO-QA/s1600/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-1.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJ6CkJHEWSs/UWUZt8hGO1I/AAAAAAAAEl4/_nraLiXO-QA/s320/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-1.png" width="152" /></a></div>
<i><b><span style="color: purple;"><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">I'm The Tailor's Apprentice and I have created <i>The Miss Page Vintage Pattern Collection</i>.
1940s WWII dress making patterns for the 21st century woman. Patterns
created by me from my extant 1940s gowns. All my patterns are available
on <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/StitchingUpHistory" target="_blank">Etsy</a> and my <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php" target="_blank">website</a> where you'll find out more about me as well. This year I am publishing an 1820s gown wardrobe pattern.</span></b></span> </b></i><br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05285873564550568786noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3928487848992149688.post-3824170986564658582013-05-01T20:44:00.002+10:002013-05-01T20:44:20.844+10:00A Regency Ball to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the European crossing of the Blue Mountains<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s_qj0Ex9h0Y/UYDj2C65GaI/AAAAAAAAEtA/kWGwp5wG60c/s1600/IMG_9791.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s_qj0Ex9h0Y/UYDj2C65GaI/AAAAAAAAEtA/kWGwp5wG60c/s320/IMG_9791.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Upper Assembly Rooms, Bath. Photo Lorna McKenzie</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Come and join me at my first <span style="color: blue;"><i>The Tailor's Apprentice Regency Frolic</i></span> on September 28th and dance the night away, or, if dancing isn't your style, then join the card players and try not to loose your estate and/or inheritance!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Our ball will be held in the delightful assemble rooms of the wonderfully historic Paragon Cafe, Katoomba built in 1916.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); color: black;">A Regency Ball in the style of 1813 on Saturday, 28th September to mark the 1813 European crossing of the Blue Mountains. <b><a href="http://regencyball2013.eventbrite.com.au/#" target="_blank">Book online now</a> as numbers are limited!</b><br /><br />Cost is $75 per head & includes:</span></span><br />
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); color: black;">Pre-ball dance classes at 5.30 with champagne and canapés, </span></span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); color: black;">The ball (which commences at 8 pm), and <span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); color: black;">all dances will be “called” and instruction provided.</span></span></span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); color: black;">A Regency collation (a full supper and desert buffet) for your delectation</span></span></li>
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<li><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); color: black;">Card tables for those who prefer not to dance will be provided.</span></span></li>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); color: black;">Full dress (i.e Regency evening dress) for a Regency ball. </span><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); color: black;"><br /></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); color: black;"><b><a href="http://regencyball2013.eventbrite.com.au/#" target="_blank">Book online now</a> </b></span><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); color: black;">to ensure your place on the ballroom floor! </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); color: black;"><i><b>A picnic at Wentworth Falls Lake Sunday 29th</b></i></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0); color: black;">At 12:30 pm on Sunday 29th, we will hold a <i>'bring your own' picnic</i> and small promenade at Wentworth Falls Lake, Sinclair Crescent, Wentworth Falls, to enjoy the untrammeled beauties of the Blue Mountains.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;"><span class="text_exposed_show" style="color: black; display: inline;"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><i><b>A Regency Frolic by The Tailor's Apprentice </b></i></span></span><span class="text_exposed_show" style="display: inline;"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/"><i><b><span class="text_exposed_show" style="display: inline;"><span style="background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);"><i><b>www.thetailorsapprentice.com</b></i></span></span></b></i></a></span></span></span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJ6CkJHEWSs/UWUZt8hGO1I/AAAAAAAAEl4/_nraLiXO-QA/s1600/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-1.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PJ6CkJHEWSs/UWUZt8hGO1I/AAAAAAAAEl4/_nraLiXO-QA/s320/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-1.png" width="152" /></a></div>
<i><b><span style="color: purple;"><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">I'm The Tailor's Apprentice and I have created <i>The Miss Page Vintage Pattern Collection</i>.
1940s WWII dress making patterns for the 21st century woman. Patterns
created by me from my extant 1940s gowns. All my patterns are available
on <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/StitchingUpHistory" target="_blank">Etsy</a> and my <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php" target="_blank">website</a> where you'll find out more about me as well. This year I am publishing an 1820s gown wardrobe pattern.</span></b></span> </b></i><br />
<br />
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05285873564550568786noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3928487848992149688.post-87639870580811812832013-04-24T18:58:00.000+10:002013-04-24T18:58:07.712+10:00My impression of the 2013 Jane Austen Festival Australia<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kiksLoh2mQs/UXeP545LFPI/AAAAAAAAEp8/QtP6mfPLZKQ/s1600/IMG_1356.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kiksLoh2mQs/UXeP545LFPI/AAAAAAAAEp8/QtP6mfPLZKQ/s320/IMG_1356.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gorgeous Georgian!</td></tr>
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I spent last weekend at the 2013 Jane Austen Festival Australia, starting on Thursday night with a potluck super and catch-up with friends, then onto, seminars, dance classes, cooking classes, bonnet workshops, an evening of roast beef and Regency entertainment, the Grand Napoleonic Ball and the Collition Ball, plus a visit to Lanyon Homestead, a picnic, a fair, concerts and much, much more. It was a blast! If you've never visited the Festival I highly recommend it.<br />
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I really love this Festival, its only a 3 hour drive away, is packed with activities and everyone is soooo friendly!<br />
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So here are some photos of my time at the Festival.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L-AMWiyMbnc/UXeTMWiwG4I/AAAAAAAAEqI/OidH_wUtdsQ/s1600/IMG_1434.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L-AMWiyMbnc/UXeTMWiwG4I/AAAAAAAAEqI/OidH_wUtdsQ/s320/IMG_1434.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The group photo at Lanyon Homestead</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i3OS3idu1Jc/UXeVwV2K1zI/AAAAAAAAEqU/LPS2d8jdSyA/s1600/IMG_1420.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-i3OS3idu1Jc/UXeVwV2K1zI/AAAAAAAAEqU/LPS2d8jdSyA/s320/IMG_1420.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Members of the Australian Costumers Guild</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WuFEAafXFZU/UXeWQ5UdWTI/AAAAAAAAEqc/o6tXCYsUSDo/s1600/IMG_1302.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WuFEAafXFZU/UXeWQ5UdWTI/AAAAAAAAEqc/o6tXCYsUSDo/s320/IMG_1302.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of our 1780-1820 fashion parade group for the Variety night, I was the presenter, so have no stage photos</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-E6dYEqz40jA/UXeW0Dv06mI/AAAAAAAAEqk/Ct5mD3FjxtY/s1600/IMG_1331.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-E6dYEqz40jA/UXeW0Dv06mI/AAAAAAAAEqk/Ct5mD3FjxtY/s320/IMG_1331.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A dance demonstration for the Variety night</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ijmy4wQxJq0/UXeXZDB_AwI/AAAAAAAAEqs/76tdvJro48Q/s1600/IMG_1370.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ijmy4wQxJq0/UXeXZDB_AwI/AAAAAAAAEqs/76tdvJro48Q/s320/IMG_1370.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chatting with the military</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8JYUpmOhlOc/UXeXz89vLYI/AAAAAAAAEq0/i_PGJVPNlHw/s1600/IMG_1383.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8JYUpmOhlOc/UXeXz89vLYI/AAAAAAAAEq0/i_PGJVPNlHw/s320/IMG_1383.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Touring St John's</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Q_65FmGtg3U/UXeYWYIJlaI/AAAAAAAAEq8/oxhfDtcWNe4/s1600/IMG_1391.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Q_65FmGtg3U/UXeYWYIJlaI/AAAAAAAAEq8/oxhfDtcWNe4/s320/IMG_1391.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Glitterati at the Napoleonic Ball</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tMJC_yisozo/UXeY4eAQQCI/AAAAAAAAErE/V96v9jkM4PE/s1600/IMG_1401.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tMJC_yisozo/UXeY4eAQQCI/AAAAAAAAErE/V96v9jkM4PE/s320/IMG_1401.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Glitterati at the Napoleonic Ball</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MkMx26tTS8k/UXeZSAnPYSI/AAAAAAAAErM/qCZS5S5Chv4/s1600/IMG_1396.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MkMx26tTS8k/UXeZSAnPYSI/AAAAAAAAErM/qCZS5S5Chv4/s320/IMG_1396.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Glitterati at the Napoleonic Ball</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LMQLhRsVOXs/UXeZsM__PwI/AAAAAAAAErU/nv3FYydWtsg/s1600/IMG_1424.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LMQLhRsVOXs/UXeZsM__PwI/AAAAAAAAErU/nv3FYydWtsg/s320/IMG_1424.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gaming, Unders & Overs, I believe an estate or 2 were lost ...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M0e8f8Uc_lQ/UXeaScMTZyI/AAAAAAAAErc/Wfp76DCwCLo/s1600/IMG_1464.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-M0e8f8Uc_lQ/UXeaScMTZyI/AAAAAAAAErc/Wfp76DCwCLo/s320/IMG_1464.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Touring Lanyon Homestead</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wj0LniOQKGw/UXeawDYz0rI/AAAAAAAAErk/gX0vYEybbs8/s1600/IMG_1479.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wj0LniOQKGw/UXeawDYz0rI/AAAAAAAAErk/gX0vYEybbs8/s320/IMG_1479.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Touring Lanyon Homestead</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M8eQEYutfTE/UXebdhKIXBI/AAAAAAAAEr8/EL88pqlscgk/s1600/IMG_1482.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M8eQEYutfTE/UXebdhKIXBI/AAAAAAAAEr8/EL88pqlscgk/s320/IMG_1482.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Regency silhouette </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VTU7sOJdW_c/UXebJ8-FcWI/AAAAAAAAErs/k8VnmUZ70YU/s1600/IMG_1484.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VTU7sOJdW_c/UXebJ8-FcWI/AAAAAAAAErs/k8VnmUZ70YU/s320/IMG_1484.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chatting about Lanyon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-quIVHuOX6r0/UXebS4I-HoI/AAAAAAAAEr0/bo4NDASW5pg/s1600/IMG_1488.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-quIVHuOX6r0/UXebS4I-HoI/AAAAAAAAEr0/bo4NDASW5pg/s320/IMG_1488.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Resting in the shade of the verandah</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4t3ktiHEKXo/UXebqAe0PUI/AAAAAAAAEsE/dZj2cid6MsQ/s1600/IMG_1489.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4t3ktiHEKXo/UXebqAe0PUI/AAAAAAAAEsE/dZj2cid6MsQ/s320/IMG_1489.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Through the arbour, the gardens were lovely</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rSbboOahbQI/UXebrdiE2dI/AAAAAAAAEsM/G3giUXG-pzA/s1600/IMG_1513.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rSbboOahbQI/UXebrdiE2dI/AAAAAAAAEsM/G3giUXG-pzA/s320/IMG_1513.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Resting before lunch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p3AIrwkk6rY/UXecjNM_6kI/AAAAAAAAEsY/gKBoxDFJOm4/s1600/IMG_1524.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p3AIrwkk6rY/UXecjNM_6kI/AAAAAAAAEsY/gKBoxDFJOm4/s320/IMG_1524.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunday afternoon Fair</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t5BNlaX5o1g/UXedEbA8YuI/AAAAAAAAEsg/LBm8gARcag4/s1600/IMG_1534.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t5BNlaX5o1g/UXedEbA8YuI/AAAAAAAAEsg/LBm8gARcag4/s320/IMG_1534.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1813 Ackerman's Repository reproductions</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-m8iVS2P1UXQ/UXedOPD0AeI/AAAAAAAAEsw/r7qRvbZfjdg/s1600/IMG_1542.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-m8iVS2P1UXQ/UXedOPD0AeI/AAAAAAAAEsw/r7qRvbZfjdg/s320/IMG_1542.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">813 Ackerman's Repository reproduction</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rf7nCYTnFvk/UXedNPPNLhI/AAAAAAAAEso/AsSVf5zE1vo/s1600/IMG_1554.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rf7nCYTnFvk/UXedNPPNLhI/AAAAAAAAEso/AsSVf5zE1vo/s320/IMG_1554.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our fabulous and tireless muscians</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
As you can see, it was a marvellous event, now counting the days till next year's Festival :)<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05285873564550568786noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3928487848992149688.post-63502864565946502082013-04-24T17:20:00.001+10:002013-11-11T15:08:40.595+11:00An Australian WWI nurse's uniform - A visit to the Australian War Memorial<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://sites.google.com/site/archoevidence/_/rsrc/1320614052449/home/ww1australianwomen/aans-uniform/piper_nurses_lge.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo from <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/archoevidence/home/ww1australianwomen/aans-uniform" target="_blank">AANS Uniform & Service Requirements</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
I've been asked to create a pattern for the Australian WWI nurse's uniform, both the ward dress and the dress uniform. Some serious research was required and first stop was the interwebs and I found a number of examples, such as the one above, and have pinned them to my <a href="http://pinterest.com/lorna_mckenzie/20th-century-wwi/" target="_blank">WWI board</a>.<br />
<br />
I then contacted the Australian War Memorial in Canberra and asked them what was available in their collection and if I could organise a visit as I was already there for the Jane Austen Festival Australia last weekend. Sadly there aren't many uniforms left and the AWM only had a Norfolk jacket and dickie of the dress uniform. Still n' all, they were marvellous and let me view it and take as many photos as I needed.<br />
<br />
It was wonderful to see a uniform worn by a serving women who worked to heal soldiers injured in the battles. She would have worn her dress uniform with pride, and deservedly so!<br />
<br />
The Australian Army Nurse Service (AANS) WWI outdoor uniforms changed during the war to adapt to changing fashions and I am very thankful to the <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/archoevidence/home/ww1australianwomen/aans-uniform" target="_blank">AANS Uniform & Service Requirements</a> for the following information. <br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><i><img alt="P04233.001" height="450" href="http://cas.awm.gov.au/item/P04233.001" rel="nofollow" src="http://cas.awm.gov.au/screen_img/P04233.001" style="display: inline; float: left; margin: 5px 10px 0px 0px; zoom: 1;" width="324" /><b>1914 Outdoor Dress</b><br />An ankle length grey serge dress with
a long sleeved, loose fitting blouson bodice, a six gore skirt (
its more likely to be a 5 gore skirt) and a self fabric belt. ( noted
that there are 3 horizontal tucks at mid calf level on the skirt)<span style="font-size: x-small;">. </span>The bodice had a yoke at the back but not at the front.
This was fastened with 5 buttons (in front) from the neck to the waist and the belt had two buttons.
The stand collar and cuffs were edged with narrow, linen liners.
On the right sleeve, just above the elbow there was a raised embroidered AANS Badge. </i></span></span><a href="https://sites.google.com/site/archoevidence/home/ww1australianwomen/aans-uniform" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span dir="ltr" id="sites-page-title">AANS Uniform & Service Requirements</span></span></span></a></blockquote>
As noted in the above quote, the first outdoor uniform jacket was based on a Gibson style shirtwaist. Then, it changed in 1916 to the very popular Norfolk jacket style, with a front dickie that shows as the undershirt. The jacket was also worn with the 5-6 gore skirt of the period, which started at ankle length and rose to mid-calf by the end of WWI. It is this later jacket that the AWM holds and is the one I saw.<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><b><span style="color: #444444;"><img alt="P03253.004" height="450" href="http://cas.awm.gov.au/item/P03253.004" rel="nofollow" src="http://cas.awm.gov.au/screen_img/P03253.004" style="display: inline; float: left; margin: 5px 10px 0px 0px; zoom: 1;" width="221" />The 1916 Outdoor Dress</span></b></span></span>
<br />
<div dir="ltr" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: #444444;">In
1916 the AANS Outdoor Dress was changed and army officer’s rank was
given to all nurses. The outdoor uniform itself changed to a grey serge
suit consisting of a Norfolk jacket and a 5 gore skirt. </span></span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: #444444;">Oxidized rank insignia and “AUSTRALIA” titles were worn on the shoulder straps of the jacket.</span></span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: #444444;">Army unit color patches were worn on the upper sleeves.</span></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: #444444;">In
working dress rank insignia was worn on shoulder straps of the red
cape. Nurses who served in the forward hospitals on Lemnos during the
Gallipoli campaign were awarded the Anzac “A” like other AIF veterans of
the Dardanelles </span></span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<br /></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: #444444;">On
the 1916 Outdoor Jacket the shoulder straps were most commonly
detachable and chocolate colored. On some photos the shoulder straps are
clearly grey.</span></span></span><a href="https://sites.google.com/site/archoevidence/home/ww1australianwomen/aans-uniform" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span dir="ltr" id="sites-page-title"><span style="color: #444444;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"> </span></span>AANS Uniform & Service Requirements</span></span></span></a></div>
</blockquote>
<div dir="ltr" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: Arial;"></span><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">Images from my visit to the AWM</span></b></div>
<b></b>The garment was made in a beautiful grey flannel (wool) and lined in cotton. The jacket is machine stitched, with hand stitching for the silk collar of the dickie.<br />
<br />
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<br />
The curator was marvellous, extremely helpful and encouraging. It was a great visit and I have learned a great deal that will inform my pattern making for the client.<br />
<br />
its a shame they didn't have a working uniform, but here are its details:<br />
<blockquote class="tr_bq">
<div dir="ltr" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: #444444;"><b><img alt="P07989.003" height="450" href="http://cas.awm.gov.au/item/P07989.003" rel="nofollow" src="http://cas.awm.gov.au/screen_img/P07989.003" style="display: inline; float: left; margin: 5px 10px 0px 0px; zoom: 1;" width="329" />Working Dress for the entire war</b></span></span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: #444444;">The
Working Dress remained the same for the entire war, except for a slight
shortening of the skirt to keep in line with the current fashion.</span></span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: #444444;">This
was a grey zephyr cotton dress similar in pattern to the 1914 Outdoor
Dress, with a detachable starched white collar (photos show both stand
and stand-and-fall collars,) and cuffs. </span></span></span></div>
<div dir="ltr" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
</div>
<div dir="ltr" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">White
cotton armband with a red felt Geneva cross sewn in the centre. The
armband is curved - wider at the centre and tapering to either end,
forming straps. The band is fastened by a two-clawed metal buckle sewn
into one end of the armband. 'A. [broad arrow symbol] S' is stamped on
the back of the armband.</span></span></div>
</blockquote>
<div dir="ltr" style="margin: 0cm 0cm 0pt;">
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: #444444;">
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<span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"></span><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="color: #444444;">There
was a starched white apron with a bib front and cross over straps at
the back (this could also be unstarched grey zephyr for extremely dirty
work). The apron sometimes had a cotton embroidered Red Cross center
top. </span></span></span><a href="https://sites.google.com/site/archoevidence/home/ww1australianwomen/aans-uniform" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;"><span dir="ltr" id="sites-page-title">AANS Uniform & Service Requirements</span></span></span></a></div>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05285873564550568786noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3928487848992149688.post-4233041956832556642013-04-10T17:55:00.000+10:002013-04-10T17:55:16.964+10:001820s late Regency dress making patterns from The Tailor's Apprentice<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HxZtPuz8hgs/UWUXo4q9KWI/AAAAAAAAEls/5kFgoQnioIs/s1600/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-2.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HxZtPuz8hgs/UWUXo4q9KWI/AAAAAAAAEls/5kFgoQnioIs/s320/The-Tailors-Apprentice-Flyer-2.png" width="152" /></a></div>
The new flyer for my soon to be released 1820s late Regency gowns. Get on the <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/about_me/subscribe" target="_blank">alert mailing list</a> today!<br />
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These gowns will be available as separate patterns, <i><b>Diana</b></i> and <i><b>Charlotte</b></i>, or you can <i><b>'mix-n-match'</b></i> to create a different gown altogether!<br />
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I believe these are the first <i><b>'Mix-n-match' Regency patterns</b></i> on the market. Choose a bodice style, a sleeve style and different trims for the skirt. You will be able to create a versatile wardrobe for day, evening and dance events. No gown need look the same in your closet. Only buy the pattern part you require!<br />
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As the year progresses, more variations will be added to the <i><b>1820s Wardrobe Collection</b></i>.<br />
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<i><b>Diana</b></i> is based on the gowns worn by the women archers in the 1823 painting <i>Meeting of the Royal British Bowmen, 1823. </i>It can be worn in the colours of the club, or turned into a lovely walking ensemble for an afternoon promenade or, with the right choice of fabrics, into a delightful ball gown.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ClCulKmQ3LE/UWUIunPVmmI/AAAAAAAAEkY/ETOKGG01lug/s1600/RoyalBrittishBowmen.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="162" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ClCulKmQ3LE/UWUIunPVmmI/AAAAAAAAEkY/ETOKGG01lug/s200/RoyalBrittishBowmen.jpg" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Taken from <a href="http://Meeting of the Royal British Bowmen, 1823" target="_blank">'Meeting of the Royal British Bowmen, 1823'</a></td></tr>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0WbscGZghO4/UWUR-Uy8HCI/AAAAAAAAElA/isZq4Qy-BOM/s1600/Regency1-TTA-86.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0WbscGZghO4/UWUR-Uy8HCI/AAAAAAAAElA/isZq4Qy-BOM/s320/Regency1-TTA-86.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<b><i>Charlotte</i></b> is based on early 1820s <i>full dress</i> (evening gown), with a number of variations for the bodice neckline and different trims, you can create your very own gown to suit your needs and fabric choices.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--7atqWMyD34/UWUSdV0riEI/AAAAAAAAElQ/UGCRwF3YP5M/s1600/Regency1-TTA-128.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--7atqWMyD34/UWUSdV0riEI/AAAAAAAAElQ/UGCRwF3YP5M/s320/Regency1-TTA-128.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8VwqyjpYQpg/UWUSgTYBtWI/AAAAAAAAElg/jVClXJLSGFs/s1600/Regency1-TTA-91.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8VwqyjpYQpg/UWUSgTYBtWI/AAAAAAAAElg/jVClXJLSGFs/s320/Regency1-TTA-91.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
These gowns will be available as separate patterns, <i><b>Diana</b></i> and <i><b>Charlotte</b></i>, or you can <i><b>'mix-n-match'</b></i> to create a different gown altogether!<br />
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<i><b>Pre-order available very soon, get on the <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php/about_me/subscribe" target="_blank">mailing list</a> to be the first in the know!</b></i><br />
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<i><b>*********************************************************************************************** </b></i><br />
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<i><b><span style="color: purple;"><b><span style="font-family: "Courier New",Courier,monospace;">I'm The Tailor's Apprentice and I have created <i>The Miss Page Vintage Pattern Collection</i>.
1940s WWII dress making patterns for the 21st century woman. Patterns
created by me from my extant 1940s gowns. All my patterns are available
on <a href="https://www.etsy.com/shop/StitchingUpHistory" target="_blank">Etsy</a> and my <a href="http://www.thetailorsapprentice.com/index.php" target="_blank">website</a> where you'll find out more about me as well. This year I am publishing an 1820s gown wardrobe pattern.</span></b></span> </b></i><br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05285873564550568786noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3928487848992149688.post-92180574897581025542013-04-05T20:42:00.000+11:002013-04-05T20:51:30.350+11:00A 1920s Robe de Style<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EZ704qsk6UI/UV6WynU4EuI/AAAAAAAAEhM/bqKm_lVLJ9E/s1600/Robe+de+style.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EZ704qsk6UI/UV6WynU4EuI/AAAAAAAAEhM/bqKm_lVLJ9E/s320/Robe+de+style.jpg" width="148" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span id="goog_298751678"></span><a href="http://pinterest.com/lorna_mckenzie/1920s/">From my 1920s Pinterest board </a><span id="goog_298751679"></span></td></tr>
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I adore the 20s Robe de Style gowns, they hark back to the 18th century pannier gowns and they have a waist and hips. <br />
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I decided to make one for this year's Blue Mountains Roaring Twenties and All That Jazz festival this February.<br />
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My friend Sam gave me a copy of <a href="http://www.dressmakingresearch.com/1928_draping_a_magic_dance_frock.htm#">Draping a Magic Dance Gown </a> from 1928. Now who wouldn't want to make a 'magic' dance gown!<br />
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I decided to use it as my guide to make my own dance gown as it has all of the elements of a Robe de Style. I intended wearing the gown to the Tango Evening at The Parragon Cafe in Katoomba.<br />
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I didn't chart my progress I'm afraid, but I followed the guide faithfully and here is my result.<br />
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My fabric was a silk chiffon saree for the over gown and the under gown was a 'gold' lame for the bodice and a beautiful blue silk for the skirt, all from the fabric stash.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bPQhsFu3Tis/UV6ZaFuz6rI/AAAAAAAAEhU/uzKh98JfgT4/s1600/IMG_1097.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bPQhsFu3Tis/UV6ZaFuz6rI/AAAAAAAAEhU/uzKh98JfgT4/s320/IMG_1097.jpg" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Good photo of gown, shame my eyes are shut though!</td></tr>
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I used pink netting, also from the stash, to make my panniers, that was the only deviation I made from the instructions.<br />
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I loved the way it turned out, finally a 20s gown that I enjoy wearing!<br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NAHYkisfrAA/UV6a2kPCPYI/AAAAAAAAEho/GtvNL-ll7oc/s1600/IMG_1101.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NAHYkisfrAA/UV6a2kPCPYI/AAAAAAAAEho/GtvNL-ll7oc/s320/IMG_1101.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
Tangoing badly, lol!<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oUFm1D_X05U/UV6bkPruc3I/AAAAAAAAEh0/eZOKP0nkgKg/s1600/IMG_1130.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oUFm1D_X05U/UV6bkPruc3I/AAAAAAAAEh0/eZOKP0nkgKg/s320/IMG_1130.jpg" width="239" /></a></div>
Eyes open this time.<br />
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I love the gown, its fun to wear and I love the huge hips the pannier's provide. I know, I'm weird!<br />
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<span id="goog_298751680"></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/"></a><span id="goog_298751681"><span id="goog_298751685"></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/"></a><span id="goog_298751686"></span></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05285873564550568786noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3928487848992149688.post-56989765174083679902013-04-05T18:37:00.000+11:002013-04-12T18:46:37.743+10:00An 1813 cloak for Jane Austen Festival Australia 2013<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nlRViOM7otg/UV515COaXvI/AAAAAAAAEfw/C8K3JsZ8aZQ/s1600/1813+Blue+cloak.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nlRViOM7otg/UV515COaXvI/AAAAAAAAEfw/C8K3JsZ8aZQ/s320/1813+Blue+cloak.jpg" width="189" /></a></div>
I'm making an 1813 cloak for Jane Austen Festival Australia 2013 challenge, which is to create an outfit to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the publication of Pride and Prejudice. <br />
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I've been in love with the gorgeous blue cloak on the left since I found it and pinned it to my <a href="http://pinterest.com/lorna_mckenzie/regency-1813/" target="_blank">1813 Pinterest board</a>. I love everything about it, the shape, especially the pointed front, its colours, the embroidery, its so stylish, so I am replicating the design for the challenge.<br />
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First challenge was to figure out how the shape was created, its not a simple circle, the water colour doesn't show any seams, so really, its all guesstimate informed with period construction.<br />
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My Jean Hunniset book has been fabulous an gave me the period cloak shape to use. The triangle points at the top can be extended to create the style I am after. This cape is one from the early 19th century and therefore totally possible to use for 1813.<br />
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The back has a lovely curve that I can also emulate, I cant see the
back of the Ackerman's water colour, but it does curve up towards the
back, so I can use this detail happily. <br />
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<img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XF47pjnHZDQ/UV546spQH_I/AAAAAAAAEgQ/EIJV9PWeXA4/s200/IMG_1172.jpg" width="150" /><br />
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<b>Toile</b><br />
I drafted my toile from the above pattern, elongating the front and back pieces and this is what I got.<br />
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Look at that, its an almost exact replica, very pleased.<br />
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Here's one with the hood toile included, used a different pattern for the hood, still from Jean Hunnisett, but the type used by the fashionable red cloaks of the period with the pleated centre.<br />
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So toile done, now to get into the fashion fabric ...<br />
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<b>Fashion fabric</b> <br />
The cotton velvet is much harder to work with than the calico of course, but the results are so pretty.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c8t4nY3-efM/UWS365FP_VI/AAAAAAAAEis/b9g_1rZfEMs/s1600/IMG_1195.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-c8t4nY3-efM/UWS365FP_VI/AAAAAAAAEis/b9g_1rZfEMs/s320/IMG_1195.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I love this fabric, the lining is a floral cotton.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bofzFmR_YnY/UWS4F4RxYQI/AAAAAAAAEi0/jQ40e83xwJ0/s1600/IMG_1197.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bofzFmR_YnY/UWS4F4RxYQI/AAAAAAAAEi0/jQ40e83xwJ0/s320/IMG_1197.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With hood pined on, hood lined in silk taffeta</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N_Y35e-yVLk/UWS4Kw4qNCI/AAAAAAAAEi8/LHHFhG6LIR0/s1600/IMG_1196.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-N_Y35e-yVLk/UWS4Kw4qNCI/AAAAAAAAEi8/LHHFhG6LIR0/s320/IMG_1196.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Back view</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rKdJTGLvll8/UWS4SEqafBI/AAAAAAAAEjE/Ivo2Qtc2nk0/s1600/IMG_1198.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rKdJTGLvll8/UWS4SEqafBI/AAAAAAAAEjE/Ivo2Qtc2nk0/s320/IMG_1198.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Front view with hood</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yujQtj-AcN8/UWS4dvLr-JI/AAAAAAAAEjM/cmKpBp4FlaI/s1600/IMG_1199.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yujQtj-AcN8/UWS4dvLr-JI/AAAAAAAAEjM/cmKpBp4FlaI/s320/IMG_1199.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trimming pinned on for hand stitching</td></tr>
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<b>Hand stitching trim</b><br />
Its coming together, now I need to hand stitch down the trim, and the hood and embellish it.<br />
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<b> </b>As the cloak is hand stitched I had issues with velvet on velvet that
doesn't happen with my Pfaff with its integrated walking foot. This was much more noticeable when I was attaching the pink velvet trim, the velvets kept on 'walking and buckling, argh!<b> </b></div>
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<b>Attaching the hood</b></div>
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I pleated the cloak's neck, it could have been cartridge pleated or gathered, all three are appropriate for the period. I gathered the cloak's velvet hood and then pinned and hand stitched down. I should have gathered the hood of lining and fashion fabric first, d'oh, so I did that next while I had access.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dkaQLBTJpQY/UWfBT7dKyLI/AAAAAAAAEnc/8IwXwAZXDBM/s1600/IMG_1232.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dkaQLBTJpQY/UWfBT7dKyLI/AAAAAAAAEnc/8IwXwAZXDBM/s320/IMG_1232.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gathered end of hood, this could have been cartridge pleated as well</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-x-KClP9TMKc/UWfBY-WlWWI/AAAAAAAAEns/_oQVGLsxDgk/s1600/IMG_1234.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-x-KClP9TMKc/UWfBY-WlWWI/AAAAAAAAEns/_oQVGLsxDgk/s320/IMG_1234.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adding the cover to hide the pleats, I created a kind-of Suffolk Puff</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Repeated with silk lining</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Covering the gathers</td></tr>
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Hood silk lining covers the seams and was hand stitched down.<br />
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<b>Ribbon ties</b><br />
The cloak is very heavy so to ensure my ribbon ties stay attached I used 2 metres of ribbon and stitched it around the the outside neck of the cloak. I doubt this is period, but it will work.<br />
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<b>Embellishing</b></div>
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The original water colour has what looks to be embroidery of roses and leaves all around the cape, this is way too complicated for my minimalist embroidery skills and the time available. So I bought pre-made pink roses on green leaves made of ribbon. These weren't cheap, $A5.99 for 6 pieces, ouch! Needs must however and I bought them and stitched to the pink trim. I bought 6 packets, not enough to replicate the Ackerman's profusion, but all that were available. Here's the results.</div>
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I will 'gather ye rosebuds' (sorry couldn't resist!) and attach them when they have been restocked to properly replicate the Ackerman watercolour embellishment, but I am very pleased with my reproduction of the cloak.</div>
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<b>The #Historical Sew Fortnight Challenge 'just the facts mam'</b></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="messageBody" data-ft="{"type":3}"><span class="userContent"><b>The Challenge</b>: Embellish. <span style="font-size: small;">Reproduction of an</span> <span style="font-size: small;">1813 Ackerman's water colour fashion drawing</span><br />
<b>Fabric:</b> cotton velvet<span style="font-size: small;">, </span>cotton printed lining and silk for the hood lining<br /> <b>Pattern: </b></span></span></span></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span class="messageBody" data-ft="{"type":3}"><span class="userContent">Jean Hunniset book has been fabulous an gave me the period cloak shape to use <span class="text_exposed_show"><br /> <b>Year:</b><span style="font-size: small;"> 1813</span><br /> <b>How
historically accurate is it</b>: <span style="font-size: small;">as accurate as I could make it, hand stitched, fabrics are natural<span style="font-size: small;">, pattern is of the time period.</span></span><br /> <b>Hours to complete:</b> <span style="font-size: small;">Two weeks</span><br /> <b>First worn</b>: not worn yet, next week at <span style="font-size: small;">the Jane Austen Festival Australia</span><br /> <b>Total cost:</b> about $<span style="font-size: small;">90 for blue velvet, pink velet from stash</span>, plus ~$<span style="font-size: small;">60<span style="font-size: small;">'ish'</span></span> for trimmings</span></span></span></span></span></span></h5>
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